For quite some time I have had an interest in the tequila type spirits of Chihuahua. Many of our guests have enjoyed the sotol we have experienced there – usually purchased at a roadside liquor store. Often we are able to buy Hacienda brand (also widely available in the USA) or Don Cuco Sotol (rare in Chihuahua and only distributed in four states now).

At other times we have found local sources for non-labeled local brews. In other words bootlegged stuff and we usually can buy it once we get the word out we are looking for it. These local spirits are often delicious and it is interesting how they vary. They vary according to the origin location of the plants used, soil, water, etc. These factors have been well discussed by Ron Cooper and what makes sotol vary will be discussed in another blog soon.

So…we are putting together a trip to explore not just local sotols in Copper Canyon but also the other brews- lechuguilla, bacanora, mescal, etc.

The first ever Sotol Circle

This October 24 leaving from El Paso, Texas, the inaugural edition of “The Sotol Circle” will make a circuit through Chihuahua exploring the spirits of this enchanting area. The itinerary will include Janos and Don Cuco Sotol, Casas Grandes (Mata Ortiz and Paquime), Madera, Creel, Temoris, Areponapuchi, the Mennonite country (not much sotol here), and Chihuahua City- the big apple and home to the vintage saloon, “Antigua Paz” .

Here is the itinerary and some details:

The Sotol Circle, 2012

A tour exploring the tequila type drinks of Chihuahua

with a grand view of the Copper Canyon and the world renowned train.

Authentic Copper Canyon

The spirits of the Copper Canyon region are several and delicious. This trip will give a variety of experiences seeing the origins, sipping the drinks and seeing the production (in season) of sotol, lechuguilla, tesguino, and perhaps bacanora or pulque.

Here is a brief itinerary:

Day 1- Fly into El Paso and travel to Janos to experience Don Cuco sotol. Evening in Casas Grandes at the restored hacienda “Casa de Nopal”.

Day 2- Cross the high ranch country towards Copper Canyon and experience local sotol on the way. Evening in Creel.

Day 3- Board the world renowned Copper Canyon train and head through the heart of the canyons to Temoris. Evening meal at a local dive in this village with some sips of various local lechuguilla.

Day 4- Hike down to the train and head for Areponapuchi- more local sotol and lechuguilla. Evening with Lola Mancinas- a great chef and wine maker.

Day 5- Time to experience the gondola and zipline, then off to Chihuahua City through Mennonite country. Evening jaunt to the oldest bar in Chihuahua- Antigua Paz. We stay at the historic “San Felipe el Real”.

______________________________________________________________________

Tentative date for El Paso departure is October 24, 2012

This trip leaves from the El Paso airport and ends in Chihuahua City. Price includes all meals but 4, all transport, guides, hotels. Alcohol not included

Price is $975, single occ add $180.

Deposit is $500 payable to TopTrips, 514 S Edwin, Champaign, Il 61821. Balance due 30 days prior to departure date

There are options for adding on more time in Copper Canyon.

Return transit to El Paso can also be arranged.

Along one of the rims in Copper Canyon, Mexico in August when all is green.

Copper Canyon in August

August is a fine time to experience Copper Canyon and the amazing Copper Canyon train. Usually the weather is quite nice. The special thing about the weather is that the rainy season has been on for a few weeks so about each day or so there is a Colorado type shower at noon or so. This freshens things and the waterfalls flow and everything turns green.

Basasiachic Falls

This trip to Copper Canyon in August should be a special one. Often we do not take in the Basasiachic Falls. It is a bit of a drive there and if the falls are low- it’s a disappointment. But this trip will include the great falls as well as San Isidro and the great Gallego overlook, Noritari in the pines above San Juanito, Casas Grandes and of course the grand views and adventure park in the Divisadreo area

Weather in Copper Canyon

The packing list for this Copper Canyon train trip will be a bit different. The weather is warm so just a slight wrap for cool evenings is needed. A little rain protection- like a poncho or rain jacket would be in order. Also sun screen is a must as the elevation and direct sun are both in play.

Details

This trip is August 4-12 and it leaves from and returns to El Paso, TX. You should fly into El Paso early day August 4 or arrive the night before and get at hotel. It is possible to fly out late day August 12 or plan to grab a room in El Paso that day and fly on the 13^th. Here is the itinerary and pricing – you can call Dave at 217.369.9897 or email davehensleigh@gmail for more details.

Don’t miss this special season in Copper Canyon as the waterfalls flow and the green canyon walls shine!

The mighty Basasiachic falls roars in August- from summitpost.org

Call Dav today at 217.369.9897 or email davehensleigh@gmail.com for details.

Here is the itinerary:

Copper Canyon Trip- APR2912

April 29-May 6, 2012

Apr 29- Arrive in El Paso. The airport is a good place to get pesos. Use the Travelex near the spot where you turn right to go to the baggage area. Meet our van and we head for Santa Teresa NM (20 minutes) to cross into Mexico. We are off toward the big apple- Chihuahua City. Dinner together and perhaps an evening view of the gigantic cathedral in the central plaza. We check into the historic boutique hotel, the San Felipe el Real. Stroll the historic district and the vast market.

The journey- We get an introduction to Norteño food as we travel south through the high elevation of the Chihuahua Desert. Burritos and other delicious street foods will be ours to choose from in the little towns north of Chihuahua.

Chihuahua City- This bustling hub for commerce has its roots as a mining and ranching center. Several fascinating museums (including the Pancho Villa home) gather around the towering 1700s cathedral. The food here is a bit eclectic and reflects the melting pot that Chihuahua has become.

Apr 30- Up early and off to San Juanito by train through Mennonite country. Winding our way into the Sierra Madre, we drop into several little villages and then arrive at the relaxing wooded Noritari near San Juanito- a unique cabin style solar hotel with a gourmet cook. A great night to enjoy dinner, chat with the chef, and take a stroll along the stream through the mountains.

Noritari- This unique 80 hectare site is dotted with cabins with fireplaces, private baths, solar lighting- the nearby stream flows and the pines whisper.

May 1– We will relax or take a hike and breakfast. Then board the train late morning and head through the mountains to Cerocahui and the little San Isidro lodge

Cerocahui- This quiet little town sits in a beautiful valley and is a great place to overnight. We will stay above town nearer to the majestic Gallego overlook.

May 2- A morning jaunt to Gallego to see the great chasm. Then board the train headed northeast for Areponapuchi (Posada Barrancas station). We arrive at this tiny town and a local lodge- above the canyon- Mansion Tarahumara. Dinner, relax as well as perhaps watch the sunset over the vast reaches of Copper Canyon. “Arepo”as we call it, is officially “nowhere Mexico”. The area around Arepo gives us a good long look at Copper Canyon, and we have plenty of time to look around.
Areponapuchi- Just call it Arepo and don’t expect the big city. This tiny place sits near the rim of some of the best views of Copper Canyon. The new gondola and ziplines are a scenic thrill, and you can walk or ride horses in and around the great canyon. Also a good place to pick up local souvenirs.Horses are available here- huge views!

May 3– All day to enjoy ziplines, gondola, hiking, etc….and relax!

May 4 – Sunrise at the edge of Copper anyone? Breakfast and a walk down through a Tarahumara cave dwelling. Some last views of the canyon, then we catch our van to head for Casas Grandes As the evening cools a walk through the ancient Indian ruins at Paquime. Our home this evening is the lovely hacienda, Casa de Nopal.

Casas Grandes- Right on the edge of Casas are the Paquime Indian archaeological ruins- a UNESCO World Heritage site- and nearby is the tiny village of Mata Ortiz. The pottery from this area is very special and known around the world for its intricacy and character.

Food in the Casas area- This is the high desert area and truly ranch country. We will eat at an historic hacienda and savor the local restaurants.

Mar 5 – Plenty of time to explore the Paquime ruins, Mata Ortiz pottery, etc. If your flight is early tomorrow- head to El Paso late afternoon

Mar 6- If your flight is after 2p, head up to El Paso this morning

• Price for this trip is $1,340 USD per person.

• This includes all guides, transport, food, and hotels in Mexico except your visa, 4 meals, gondola and zipline, and alcohol. I will supply an overview of expected personal expenses.

• Deposit is $500 per  person.

• Payable to TopTrips, 514 South Edwin, Champaign, Il 61821.

This will be a fun trip!!!

Dave

The sun still rises over this Sierra Madre paradise- this shot taken from my hotel room!

Copper Canyon Trip- Here is one of our Fall trips to Copper. We go twice a month and can plan a trip for you at any time!

October 6-15, 2012

This is a planned itinerary and may vary slightly.

Included meals are noted.

Oct 6- Arrive in El Paso. The airport is a good place to get pesos. Use the Travelex near the spot where you turn right to go to the baggage area. Meet our van and we head for Santa Teresa NM (20 minutes) to cross into Mexico. We are off through the high Chihuahuan desert toward Casas Grandes. We check into the historic Casa de Nopal hotel. Stroll through Paquime and dinner at the hotel. (L,D)

The journey- We get an introduction to Norteño food as we travel south through the high elevation of the Chihuahua Desert. Burritos and other delicious street foods will be ours to choose from in the little towns.

Casas Grandes- Right on the edge of Casas are the Paquime Indian archaeological ruins- a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Food in the Casas area- This is the high desert area and truly ranch country. We will eat at an historic hacienda and savor the local restaurants.

Oct 7- We have a relaxed morning and a light breakfast at Casa de Nopal, then off by van through ranch country into the Mennonite area around Cuauhtemoc. Lunch in this unique orchard covered area. We check into the Hotel Tarahumara Inn and enjoy dinner at one of the great local eateries. (B,L)

Mennonites- They migrated here from Canada around 1922 and have transformed the high plateaus into some of the most productive land in Chihuahua. Still German speakers, they produce apples, oats, and dairy products- including the famous white Chihuahua cheese.

Oct 8- Time for breakfast and then to the train to go up into the Sierra Madres. We roll through the mountains to Cerocahui and the little San Isidro lodge. (B,L,D)

Cerocahui- This quiet little town sits in a beautiful valley and is a great place to overnight. We will stay above town nearer to the majestic Gallego overlook.

Oct 9- We have time to go over to Gallego and perhaps down to Urique if we want. . Then we reboard the train for the unsurpassed journey toward our evening destination, El Fuerte. Tunnels, bridges, canyons, mountains…have your cameras ready! Arrive in El Fuerte for dinner…this place is known for incredible food! (B,L)
El Fuerte- A small town with a quaint (and delicious!) market and lots of colonial architecture. History, Indian culture, bird watching, and a palm lined plaza make this place a favorite.
Oct 10 – A full day for relaxing and exploring the area- the wonderful colonial town with lots of opportunities for food and photography. A morning trip to the river for bird watching as we float and a walk through the local petro glyph site. Lunch on your own. The visit to the market here is a must, then dinner in a local home with our host Evangelina. (B,D)

Evangelina- This lovely lady with her brother and extended family live in one of the historic mansions off the square in El Fuerte. We often dine with them and get a full taste of some genuine Copper Canyon hospitality.

Oct 11 - Board the train in the morning headed northeast for Areponapuchi (Posada Barrancas station). We arrive at this tiny town and a local lodge- above the canyon- Mansion Tarahumara. Dinner, relax as well as perhaps watch the sunset over the vast reaches of Copper Canyon. “Arepo”as we call it, is officially “nowhere Mexico”. The area around Arepo gives us a good long look at Copper Canyon, and we have plenty of time to look around. (B,L,D)
Areponapuchi- Just call it Arepo and don’t expect the big city. This tiny place sits near the rim of some of the best views of Copper Canyon. The new gondola and ziplines are a scenic thrill, and you can walk or ride horses in and around the great canyon. Also a good place to pick up local souvenirs.Horses are available here- huge views!

Oct 12– All day to enjoy ziplines, gondola, hiking, etc….and relax! Then off to San Juanito by van and we arrive at the relaxing wooded Noritari near San Juanito- a unique cabin style solar hotel with a gourmet cook. A great night to enjoy dinner, chat with the chef, and take a stroll along the stream through the mountains. (B,L,D)

Noritari- This unique 80 hectare site is dotted with cabins with fireplaces, private baths, solar lighting- the nearby stream flows and the pines whisper.

Oct 13- A relaxing breakfast and then off through the ranch country to Casas Grandes, We return to Casa de Nopal and go directly to Mata Ortiz. Dinner at a local hacienda. (B,D)

Mata Ortiz- - The tiny village of Mata Ortiz is an artistic mecca. The pottery from this area is very special and known around the world for its intricacy and character.

Oct 14-  Relax as we finish what we may have missed. Leave Casas by 2 or 3p and drop into Janos on the way and get a warm welcome and tour with Celso and Emma at Don Cuco sotol. Sotol is THE drink of Chihuahua and is somewhat like tequila- but better…bring some home! We cross back into the USA and  to our El Paso hotel. (B)

Sotol- This stop at Don Cuco will give you a full introduction (including a few sips) to this fine spirit from the enchanting Chihuahua area.

Oct 15- Fly home. (B)

• Price for this trip is $1695 USD per person. Single room, add $300.

• This includes all guides, transport, food, and hotels except your visa, 6 meals, gondola and zipline, and alcohol. I will supply an overview of expected personal expenses.

• Deposit is $500 per  person.

• Payable to TopTrips, 514 South Edwin, Champaign, Il 61821.

For Authentic Copper Canyon, I have tried to design trips to maximize people’s experience in Copper Canyon. So our trip designs may cost a bit more than the big bus trips or may be a bit longer. To be sure, when designing trips, I pick the starting point that is best for the guests.

The Copper Canyon train rolls out of Chihuahua City and Los Mochis every morning.

Our default is to enter through El Paso, Texas and cross at St. Teresa, NM and (except when the trip includes the fantastic Baja option) to return to that point to leave Mexico. Here are the reasons:

1. The Casas Grandes area can be included. Paquime is not to be missed. The amazing pottery at Mata Ortiz is worth every moment. The ranch land in this high desert area is vast and breathtaking.

2. This route minimizes driving time. The bus rides that other companies include from Arizona to the west end and out are LOOOOOONG.

3. Flights to and from El Paso are cheap and this allows us to focus the cost of your trip there on a full immersion in the Copper Canyon scene.

4. Using this approach we often don’t take the far east and west ends of the train, but actually travel the heart of the railway twice- a real treat. The east and west ends are relatively uneventful and missing them gives focus to the trip.

This being said, here are some points about our itineraries:

1. If you want to include Baja, this plan  works well. Fly into El Paso (ELP) and return from Cabo (SJD). This plan keeps airline costs down.

2. El Fuerte is a fine two night stop in the middle of the trip. There is much more of real Mexico to enjoy here than in Los Mochis. El Fuerte has a great market, neat river ride and petro glyphs, and a fine display of colonial architecture. The plaza is a nice place to sit and watch the locals stroll.

3. One can always fly into Chihuahua City and this does give a bit more focus to the journey. The prob is that the tickets are high. Chihuahua City is served by American from Dallas and United from Houston.

4. The train goes to Copper Canyon from both ends every day. First class that is. Economy is on an every other day (not Wednesday) schedule.

Remember that with Authentic Copper Canyon, our itineraries are designed just for your interests and we always travel in small groups.

Sometimes due to a hurried Copper Canyon trip or a poorly advised itinerary, people miss this grand area. Don’t.

We ALWAYS plan trips to include 2 nights and a room with a view above the little town of Areponapuchi. Hotel Mansion Tarahumara is our lodge of choice but the Mirador is also quite servicable.

2. El Fuerte

No matter if you Copper Canyon trip is starting in Los Mochis or Chihuahua City, don’t miss this little town. The plaza is old style, the market is lively with delicious local food, and the architecture is vintage.  We usually stay at Rio Vista hotel with Chal because of the view but there are other local places…like Real de Carapoa just off the square.

3. The waterfalls

Cusarare is one of my faves. You can see the falls along the train at the Temoris station stop. Sometimes we actually stay at this little town- I know of no other tour companies who do. The there is the majestic Basaiachic- beyond belief. One that is truly out of the way is above Cuiteco. Again most tour companies avoid this place- I love it!

Here’s the deal: best time for waterfalls is late July through November. At other times they may be dry.

4. Mata Ortiz

This place is north of the canyons and we always include the Casas Grandes area and Mata Ortiz as well as the Paquime ruins. the local pottery at Mata is amazing and all produced in home workshops.We are actually changing our Copper Canyon trips now to include this place on the way in and out as well.

The finished product...amazing!

5. Copper Canyon

Yes. Don’t go to Copper Canyon and miss Copper Canyon. so many packaged tours whisk up and down the train line and people see little of it. So…

• Take your time and stop in the little towns
• Travel both ways on the train
• Don’t sit and read books or talk about politics on the train. Go lean out the window!
• Just sit somewhere and let the vastness of this grand place soak in. Like Gallego overlook, the Batoplilas road, the Temoris overlook, the Christo Rey above Creel or wherever.

The sun still rises over this Sierra Madre paradise- this shot taken from my hotel room!

Urique is the town you see below...site of the Caballo Blanco run.

Every spring in Urique at the bottom of one of the Copper Canyon gulches, the Caballo Blanco UltraMarathon is run. The brain child of Micah True (Caballo Blanco), this race was put on the running map by Chris McDougall in his bestseller “Born to Run”.

Where is Urique?

Its at the bottom along the Urique River below the majestic Gallego overlook. I love this little town- it is at the end of the road and is quiet kind of like Batopilas over the hill. Jose and Tita have a restaurant on the main drag and the food is wonderful. They also have a little hotel that is serviceable- especially in cooler months.

Who was Caballo Blanco?

Yes WAS! At this writing his body has been found in the Gila Wilderness. He apparently passed away while running there a few days ago. I met him in Creel a few years ago and we chatted on line from time to time. We shared a passion for this land and he will be deeply missed. As I said, you can read all about him in “Born to Run” and his site carries a lot of the flavor and lore of his eccentric existence. Micah True will be missed…one of the true characters in Copper.

When is the Caballo Blanco UltraMarathon?

Usually the first Sunday in March. When we have been in the canyons at this time we see the runners coming in a week before to get acclimatized and prepped.

Miguel Lara (center) and his running buddies in Copper Canyon.

2012 Copper Canyon Ultramarathon results

I am chasing these down. If you have them please send me the link. I know the winner was the bashful Miguel Lara from nearby Porochi ejido and he set a course record.

Other Copper Canyon Long Runs

Several communities have them in Chihuahua now as well as around Northern Mexico. There is actually a run in Cerocahui which is in July I think. You can contact Mario or Tito at San Isidro Lodge for info.

Copper Canyon Running Trip

People often ask me about the barefoot runners and  Caballo Blanco. So I have started a Copper Canyon Running Trip so that people can experience what it is like to run with the Raramuri.

Food- The food on the train and the places we stay are safe. We often eat street food- delicious. My only cautions are street and market vendors that are dirty.

Water- Best precaution is to drink bottled water. You can fill at the places we stay or buy it on the street, in a little store or on the train.

Valuables- The train is secure as are the places we stay. Still it is a good thing to keep your money, credit cards, passport, camera, jewelry, any little valuables, etc with you.

Credit/ATM cards- Handy to have as you can quickly get pesos with them at ATMs or use them for a purchase some places. NOTE: call your card provider before you leave home and give them the dates you are going to be in Mexico.

Money- bring some for your 4 meals and other stuff- like $400 or so- more if you like to drink a lot and you want to buy significant souvenirs. You can get pesos at your bank, but I recommend getting them at the El Paso airport or in Mexico.

Being alone- Use common sense. We travel in safe places, yet it is a good practice to avoid certain sleazy places and to always go in pairs.

You cannot bring back more than 2 liquors, firearms, plants, prescriptions you purchase there with no scrip, illegal drugs, fruit, pork, etc. You cannot take any of the above across the border either way.

Bring some hand sanitizer, bug repellent.

Take time to let the wonder soak in.

For any other questions on schedule, seasons, etc look around this site or call Dave at 217.369.9897. email davehensleigh@gmail.com

People enjoy riding the rails through this vast land with Dave Hensleigh, and he enjoys it too! His experience, his keen insight on the land and culture of the country, his unbridled passion for the experience there- all of this combines to make him the ideal Copper guide.

Roots:

Dave hails from rural Kansas and was educated in the Midwest and Texas, earning an undergrad in Math and a Masters in Biology. All through his youth, the trails, mountains, grasslands and wild places of the Midwest and West were his haunt. One summer in college was spent roaming Yosemite, and since, backpacking the Sierras has been a hobby.

Experience:

For thirty years, Dave has been leading groups of people on trips and adventures and his cumulative experience in this work is vast. Several years ago he connected with Copper Canyon, fell in love with the place and its people, and immersed himself in the Sierra Madre culture.

Vision:

He started Authentic Copper Canyon with a vision to give curious travelers a vivid experience in the true life of Copper and its people- not simply a vacation or resort experience. Recently, writers traveling with Dave on the train referred to him as a “relationship machine.”  No one on the train is a stranger and he has friendships up and down the canyon. Dave is curious and loves to facilitate the serendipitous journeys for which Authentic Copper Canyon is famous.

The Team:

Dave has assembled a team of guides and providers in the Sierra Madres that work together to provide vivid, safe and memorable experiences for each guest. This articulate group are experts on  the history, wildlife, and lore of the Copper Canyon region.

Welcome Aboard!

Travel with Dave for just a day and you will know the place more deeply, you will meet and enjoy some new Mexican friends…and your life will be enriched.

Dave Hensleigh, 217.369.9897, davehensleigh@gmail.com