Flor de Calabacitas bring fragrance and flavor to Chihuahua homes this time of year.

The unique foods of the Norteño area and Copper Canyon include the lovely and fragrant squash blossoms….flor de calabacitas. The are harvested in the late summer time when the rains push the brown/tan valleys and mountains into a verdant miracle.

The Fall is a great time for The Blue Corn Express culinary trip for many reasons…one of which is that we can enjoy this culinary delight.

The aroma is light as these yellow flowers are gathered in baskets early in the day. Their use is in canned vegetables, with eggs, in soups …anywhere you want a light addition to a flavorful dish.

Flor de Calabacitas are readily available in the markets early in the day - especially in the rainy season.

One of them slipped quietly in the door of the Sandoval house as we were buying some pots and her work really caught my eye.

Gerardo Mora with her pots.

Her name is Gerardo Mora, she is pleasant and unassuming, and her work is very well done and reasonably priced. I particularly liked her smaller pots…very precise and smooth. The little doubled-knecked wedding pot shown with the group above was so well done. The color of the larger snake pot to her right was a reflection of the Casas Grandes environment in the “spring ” months of March through May. The simplicity of this piece was enchanting. You will see more of her work on our site in the days to come.

Alfredo Murillo at Piedra Volada last week.

Alfredo (pictured in this recent post) is my right hand in Chihuahua City where he lives with his wife Norma and kids. He also guides for other companies. Alfredo and I traveled around for a few days in the Copper Canyon area last week making some last minute arrangements for the upcoming culinary trip, “The Blue Corn Express”, visiting with one of our fellow guides, Gustavo Luzano, in Areponapuchi, and buying some pots in Mata Ortiz.

Diana Acosta in Mata Ortiz

As I said, Diana Acosta was our host in the Casas Grandes area and she took us out to the little village of Mata Ortiz for a morning of shopping in the homes of various artists. Diana is a guide as well – her company is Agave Lindo Tours… a great resource for groups not just in the Casas area but also around Chihuahua and other parts of Mexico as well. Here Diana is shown with one of the little handmade human hair brushes the Eusebio Sandoval was using in his home studio.

Eusebio inthe first stages with a pot.

It was fascinating to watch as Eusebio put together a pot from the beginning.

Tina Sandoval with one of their large graphite pots

Their home/ studio was filled with potting supplies, partially completed pots, and several finished pots – notably a few that were 18- 24 inches tall…amazing pieces.

Tina graciously showed us around, chattering along in Spanish.

Sandoval pots...it was hard not to buy them all!

Tina and Eusebio Sandoval with me in Mata Ortiz last week.

So we had a great visit with these folks and look forward to selling some of their pots when our new site “Fine Line Pottery” gets moving.

I have recently visited with three well- informed experts from the Chihuahua area about this issue.

Spencer and Emalie MacCallum

1. Spencer MacCallum , long time resident of Casas Grandes and the initiator behind the Mata Ortiz pottery phenomenon affrimed to me strongly as we visited last week that there just have not been substantiated incidents involving tourists in the area. Note this artice on his website - http://www.mataortizcalendar.com/traveling%20to%20the%20village.html

2. Rosalva Delgado and I visited in her office in Chihuahua City last week. Rosalva is director of tourism for the railway in Copper, CHEPE. She also affirmed that the real situation is fine and that the hype about border incidents involving the army and the drug gangs has not affected security in the tourist areas.

3. My friend Gary Ziegler of Adventure Specialists takes people on horse expeditions to Copper Canyon (as well as other incredible destinations worldwide). We visited at his 9000 ft ranch in Colorado last week. His take on the situation based on over 30 years experience in the area is that we are fine to travel there and that basic precautions that one would take in any foreign country are in order.

This dish we often have in homes there…like with our friends Jesus and Jesus in Chihuahua City.

Jesus and Jesus (#1 and #2) love to cook and often have us over for a meal.

The recipe and other info on rajas con crema is on our Blue Corn Express site…under vegetables.

People depend on this train for one thing, It is THE way to get through the Sierra Madres…no matter how much the roads are improved over the years. Locals, including the Tarahumaras, us it to get up and down the mountain valleys. business people ride the rails to and from Chihuahua City. And of course there is regular tourist travel on the lines. 

 Actually for years there has been talk of the demise of the train. For now, there are daily departures both ways from Chihuahua City and Los Mochis at 6a for the Primera and every other day (not Wednesday) for the Economica. Freight trains run both ways almost daily.

This adventure includes 5 days in Copper Canyon and 5 days on the Narval on the Sea of Cortez.

This is the ideal time of year to visit both places and this one is priced to make it very affordable.

Departure can be from Chihuahua City or El Paso and return is from Cabo.

I have just 4 spots available…call me right away for info and registration. 217.369.9897

The beaches in Baja are incredible.

The freshness of the foods and nearness of the markets is one cool aspect of this cuisine. Limes for example are often just steps away…

Fresh limes are often available just out the door of one of the Chihuahua kitchens.

Another aspect of this food scene is the Tarahumaras. Often we stop in one of their homes and about as often we are offered food. One morning we dropped in Paula’s home near Gallego above Cerocahui. The whole main room was full of fresh baked smells. Cooking on the calendon in the corner over a wood fire were fresh tortillas…which we all enjoyed immensely thanks to our gracious host.

Fresh tortillas at Paula's place near Gallego.

There are so many experiences to be had like these.

Here is the itinerary for “The Blue Corn Express” this October:

The Blue Corn Express

Culinary Trip

An Authentic Copper Canyon train trip with a huge taste of the delicious Norteño foods

October 2-9, 2010 

The incredible train experience in Copper Canyon plus much more:

·       Many food treats and experiences including an overnight at Noritari, high in the Sierra Madres, dinners in local homes, recipes etc.

·       Two nights in the enchanting El Fuerte with its market, ceviche, organic farm, and petro glyphs

·       Cerocahui- a lovely little town and visits to the Copper vistas, waterfalls, Tarahumara homes, the village of Urique at the bottom of Copper and a bowl of the local “agua chile”

·       Divisadero and the tiny ranchito Cabanas Diaz- come hungry!

·       The Mennonite areas with the vast apple orchards and world famous cheeses…and pizza

·       Chihuahua City, with the Pancho Villa home, great restaurants, the 1700s cathedral

Saturday, Oct 2 – You arrive in Chihuahua City (CUU) and we check into the historic boutique hotel, the San Felipe el Real. Stroll the historic district and the vast market. Dinner and drinks at 6p and a chance to get acquainted.

Chihuahua City- This bustling hub for commerce has its roots as a mining and ranching center. Several fascinating museums (including the Pancho Villa home) gather around the towering 1700s cathedral. The food here is a bit eclectic and reflects the melting pot that Chihuahuahas become. We have options here for dining in a home or to have a local chef cater to the hotel.

Sunday, Oct 3 – We are up early for a quick breakfast and off to catch the train into the mountains. Winding our way into the Sierra Madre, we drop into several little villages and then arrive at the relaxing wooded Noritari near San Juanito- a unique cabin style hotel with a gourmet cook. A great night to enjoy dinner, chat with the chef, and take a stroll through the mountains.

              Noritari- This unique 80 hectare site is dotted with cabins with fireplaces, private baths, solar lighting- the nearby a stream flows and the pines whisper. Enjoy.

Monday, Oct 4 – Up for coffee with a relaxing breakfast in the pines and off to catch the train at 11a. Perhaps a chance to shop in Creel- then board the train and head southwest up into the mountains. Winding our way into the Sierra Madre, we get our first whistle-stop, eye-popping view of Copper Canyon at Divisadero…and a great taste of the local food vendors. We are met at the Bahuichivo station by the jovial Alberto Lopez and take the short ride to the enchanting village of Cerocahui. We have the afternoon open to stroll the plaza and streets of “Cero” or take in the local waterfall or whatever- just relax. Our hosts love to can local fruits and vegetables and always have a local dish cooking in the kitch- there is even a wood strove!

              Cerocahui- This quiet little town sits in a beautiful valley and is a great place to overnight. We stay right on the square- a great place to relax in the evening in the shadow of the ancient church.

Tuesday, Oct 5- We have a big day today as we will head for the bottom of the canyon down an exciting road to the tiny town of Urique. A highlight for lunchis “agua chile”- perhaps the most tasty shrimp dish you have ever experienced. We can watch Tita and her crew prepare this dish- including ingredients you have never heard of! We head back to the train and board for an amazing afternoon journey through the heart of Copper Canyon. Have your camera ready. We arrive for a late dinner at a delicious local taco stand in El Fuerte and a two night stay- one of the favorite spots on the trip

Wednesday, Oct 6– We have the whole day to enjoy El Fuerte with its colonial buildings and delicious foods. Breakfast in the market (birria anyone?) then a float trip to see the birdlife and petro glyphs along the Rio Fuerte. A visit to the market here is a must, a long sit on the palm lined fountained plaza will do, perhaps a visit to the organic farm, then dinner in a local home with our host Evangelina. Food highlights here are the local ceviche stands, the meat tacos and soups in the market, and the local restaurants- some of the best on the trip.

Evangelina- This lovely lady with her brother and extended family live in one of the historic mansions off the square in El Fuerte. We often dine with them and get a full taste of some genuine Copper Canyon hospitality.

Thursday, Oct 7 – We are up for a last visit to the market for breakfast thenreboard the train for the tunnel- filled journey toward our evening destination, Areponápuchi (Posada Barranca station). Dinner with our hosts, Armando and Herlinda Diaz as well as perhaps a walk up to watch the sunset over the vast reaches of Copper Canyon. “Arepo”as we call it, is officially “nowhere Mexico”. The area around Arepo gives us a good long look at Copper Canyon, and we have plenty of time to look around….and work off the delicious ranch food we will enjoy right in the Diaz kitchen.

              Areponápuchi- … don’t expect the big city. This tiny place sits near the rim of some of the best views of Copper Canyon. From here you can walk or ride horses in and around the great canyon. Also a good place to pick up local souvenirs. Local vegetables and meats are a treat here- this is ranch country.

Friday, Oct 8 - Sunrise at the edge of Copper anyone? Breakfastand a walk down through a Tarahumara cave dwelling. Some last views of the canyon, then we catch our van for the trip through the Mennonite agricultural area (vast apple areas and some of their delicious pizza for lunch) toward the big apple- Chihuahua City. Dinner together and perhaps an evening view of the gigantic cathedral in the central plaza.

Mennonites- They migrated here from Canadaaround 1922 and have transformed the high plateaus into some of the most productive land in Chihauhua. Still German speakers, they produce apples, oats, and dairy products- the famous white Chihuahua cheese.

Saturday, Oct 9 – A hearty breakfast and some time to look around Chihuahua City. Then catch our flights home. (Options available to stay an extra day or two in Chihuahua.

Pricing and details for October 2-9, 2010

Authentic Copper Canyon Trip

“The Blue Corn Express”

·       For pricing call Dave at 217.369.9897 – we can supply pricing including airfare and trip insurance from your local city.

·       Food experiences on the trip will be numerous and fun for all. The ones mentioned in this itinerary are not guaranteed, and typically our trips include much more than described here.

·       All hotels have private baths, hot water and linens and most have air conditioning- ones without air are in the mountains.

·       Hotels range from 3.5 star range to simpler cabana style places in the small towns. All are secure, clean, and have comfortable beds.

·       Price includes all transport to and from the Chihuahua City airport, all meals except 4 (alcohol on your own), and all entry and guides to places in the itinerary.

·       Arrangements can be made for guests to stay over for an extra day or more in Chihuahua City.

·       Travel insurance including medical and evacuation coverage is strongly encouraged

·       Your lead guide is Dave Hensleigh and we will also be accompanied by various local guides along the way

·       Most guests bring $200 -400 USD in pesos for the 4 meals, incidentals, souvenirs, and small tips- primary gratuities are included.

·       ACC will supply a bring list, an FAQ sheet, etc for other questions

·       Cutoff for registration and deposit is August 1, 2010.

For more info, registration and deposit, contact Dave Hensleigh, davehensleigh@gmail.com, 217.369.9897

An individualized trip can be sculpted to fit your interests (food, the train, history, birdwatching, etc) , to your schedule, to your traveling style, and budget.

People often ask what the best season is in the Sierra Madres. It depends on what you prefer. I like to avoid the month of June because it is hot and dry. But every other season has positive aspects and the trip can be adjusted to fit with the season.

Get started by calling Dave today at 217.369.9897.