Chico chatting about birds along the Rio Fuerte

We often float down the river in the early morning from the little village of Ocolome. The Ocolome Indians are a small tribe that did not survive the Spanish as well as the Tarahumaras up in the Copper Canyon area.

Chico Villasenor is our mainstay guide and trip support person there in El Fuerte. He and his family have been guiding there in the area for 30 years and I always learn something new when we are out on the river with him.

Sometimes we go in kayaks- they are easy to rent there in El Fuerte (Tres Amigos).

What is largely ignored is the wealth of culinary delights which originated and now can be enjoyed in the north- especially Chihuahua. Its called Norteno food.

The Basics of Chihauhau Cuisine

This is cowboy country and much of the food reflects that. It is simple, hearty, Meat and vegetable oriented- this is not fine wine country. There are also the direct influences of the Tarahumara Indians (not the Incas) and the Mennonites who migrated there in 1922.

Distinctives of Norteno Foods

Meats are big – including Machacha seen here drying on the ceiling at Cabanas Diaz in Areponapuchi. Also alot of poultry and pork are enjoyed- even goat (cabrito).

The burrito stands will have a wide variety of meats to enjoy. Also the little sandwiches- tortas are often filled with locally prepared meats.

In the markets, be sure to seek out the meat markets- they can be a little smelly, but they give you as great view of all the cuts of meat- including heads, tongues, heart, kidney, etc.

Another distinctive is the wide use of vebetables- especially in the stews or caldos. Carrots, onions, beans, tomatos,etc fill these delicious caldos- and they are often the main dish.

Warm chicken stew at Cabanas Diaz

More on these delights of Chihuahua later.

Remember that you can enjoy and learn about these great foods on our culinary trip called “The Blue Corn Express”.

At the Gallegp Mirador above Urique

When we travel in this enchanting land of the Sierra Madres, there are always numerous gaga sights and memorable places…like this ridge above Urique (close to the Bahuichivo CHEPE stop- check this video up close ). This shot was taken during the rainy season- actually August- a great time to  There are more moments and places like this than your camera or your heart can take in.

But the most memorable and meaningful sites and pics are the faces of the people. This little guy was hanging out at the church in the tiny town of Cuiteco as we came back from a long walk to a waterfall on Sunday morning a few weeks ago. When that look of unstoppable optimism shines through a weathered life like that, it leaves a long impression.

Not many people get off of CHEPE at Cuiteco, but it is worth it. I plan to keep it in our itinerary for Copper Canyon train trips as much as possible.

Cuiteco…a quiet stream, a “main street” with no stores or cafes- like the only place to get a coke is in the living room of “the house with the black door”, the chatter of Tarahumara children at the school beyond the school.

The Tarahumara are so photogenic…yet so shy in their ways. One great resource for their culture and ways is theexcellent book by Jeff Biggers- “In the Sierra Madre”- essential reading for those visiting the canyon.

When we offer trips there, our way is to infuse each day with oppportunities to experience these fascinating people- their language, food, artwork, etc. Oy yes…and their Tesguino! I will have to blog about that soon!

The way we approach our experiences there is to have a rough itinerary and then flex to meet the interests of the group. This make for a vastly different experience than people get with the canned or packaged trips. Time on the train, experiences in little towns, hikes to great views, meeting interesting locals and so on- all of this happens on each trip.

We usually stop at this incredible viewpoint- and then go on down to the bottom to the little town of Urique and enjoy some agua chile- some of the best of Norteno food.

Morning at Lake Arekako

Morning times are always special, and for those who want to catch “Amanacer” we can head for the rim or perhaps a remote lake like this one near Creel.

Some prefer just to enjoy the quiet with a cup of coffee or whatever- the point is , there is flexibility.

One of the features of our trips is to visit little trains along the railway that hardly any people visit. Places like Cusarare, Cuiteco, Temoris, Areponapuchi and many more.

One of my favorites is Cuiteco- it is featured in a new Authentic Copper Canyon video- watch for it in the first few moments.

This photo is taken in Cuiteco at sunrise- a quiet and lovely place.

North of the Copper Canyon area theChihuahuan Desert stretches for miles and miles up into the US. Near the town of Janos, The Nature Conservancy runs a 40,000 acre place called Rancho Uno.

This place is quiet, vast, captivating and our Authentic Copper Canyon groups are beginning to use this place as a first stop. The is a vast array of grasses, birds of all kinds- and it is all surrounded by mountains- an incredible environment for bird watching, relaxing and hiking.

Take a look at this video I recently shot with Juan Luis, the manager of the herd.

Words connot catch the peace and wonder of this place as evening gathered in and the buffalo grazed.

Check out this video and the pics below.

Eric Mohl of Trans Americas Journey shooting Juan

One of the many incredible Mata Ortiz pots.

I get a chance to meet and visit with the master potter.

Juan Quezada was a funny, thoughtful, down-to-earth guy

So we are comimg out a few weeks ago and at various stops along the way a burrito or tamale vendor will hop on and work the crowd. The drivers don’t mind and they ride for free- they are offering a public service I guess.

Then at San Juanito, a guy jumped on with an accordian and we got this little serenade- enjoy! Watch out Mexican Idol!

Recently outside the museum, we watched a local Tarahumara man whittling spoons from cedar logs by hand- like most of the crafts in the area, they are 100% local.

Speaking of crafts we took a walk over to the majestic waterfall outside of town. In that area there were several people selling handmade goods. Near on of the little plank board tables, This Tarahumara girl was weaving shawls. They were selling for about $7 USD. It was a joy to watch her weave along silently.

Actually almost all of what you can buy in the Copper Canyon area is made right there. There are of course some tshirts and hats- but the baskets, bowls, violins and other musical instruments, woven goods etc are almost all made right there- sometimes as you watch.

Anyway the Cusarare waterfall roared away nearby and it took me back to my Yosemite days to stand there in the grandeur.

Hey I will write more later about this great place- but take note that this is the setting of the important book by Jeff Biggers, “In the Sierra Madre“. It truly is as the University of Illinois Press review says “a stunning history”.

Also- if you go to this little town, I highly recommend Berthas Palce as a place to stay. You need to be up for a bit of an adventure, but this is a real experience in a Tarahumara home.

Bertha is a great cook, all is prepared on a wood stove and you will get to experience 3 generations floating around as you eat in the kitchen. Bertha Parar’s cabins are across the bridge after you go through town on the left across the stream. Contact us (davehensleigh@gmail.com if you need better directions- they have no phone) and we will get you hooked up- or just come on one of our trips there!

You may have the experience as I did of holding her newborn grand daughter!

Oh hey…check out this video we did if you love big loud waterfalls.

When we pull up to the bank and walk toward the petro glyphs, Rafael begins to discuss the plants and their medicinal uses- as in this video. He shows us common plants along the trail that will help with sore throat, back pain, tooth ache, nervousness, etc….absolutely fascinating.

His name is Rafael. He is Ocolome Indian from thelittle village of Ocolome, and as he sits at the rear of the boat, you soon realize you are in the presence of a treasure-house of knowledge. Like he knows every plant and bird we are encountering.
So, we are off on the Rio Fuerte early on a January morning- perfect weather in this magic place at the foot of Copper Canyon. The air is 70ish, a light breeze, and the fresh smell of the river is on us.

The group is quiet as we float…enchanted by the surroundings. The only sound is the ripple of the water as we float, the occasional splash of a paddle in the water…and the murmuring of Rafael. I realize that he is talking about the birds we are beginning to encounter- “vermilion flycatcher” he whispers and his eye is tuned into a low branch- sure enough there is a little flit of crisp red that moves, then darts to another tree. The attentive ones in the group take notice and I hear the first of 1000s of “awesome!”s.

More later with video—cranes, herons of all kinds, medicinal plants…