For quite some time I have had an interest in the tequila type spirits of Chihuahua. Many of our guests have enjoyed the sotol we have experienced there – usually purchased at a roadside liquor store. Often we are able to buy Hacienda brand (also widely available in the USA) or Don Cuco Sotol (rare in Chihuahua and only distributed in four states now).

At other times we have found local sources for non-labeled local brews. In other words bootlegged stuff and we usually can buy it once we get the word out we are looking for it. These local spirits are often delicious and it is interesting how they vary. They vary according to the origin location of the plants used, soil, water, etc. These factors have been well discussed by Ron Cooper and what makes sotol vary will be discussed in another blog soon.

So…we are putting together a trip to explore not just local sotols in Copper Canyon but also the other brews- lechuguilla, bacanora, mescal, etc.

The first ever Sotol Circle

This October 24 leaving from El Paso, Texas, the inaugural edition of “The Sotol Circle” will make a circuit through Chihuahua exploring the spirits of this enchanting area. The itinerary will include Janos and Don Cuco Sotol, Casas Grandes (Mata Ortiz and Paquime), Madera, Creel, Temoris, Areponapuchi, the Mennonite country (not much sotol here), and Chihuahua City- the big apple and home to the vintage saloon, “Antigua Paz” .

Here is the itinerary and some details:

The Sotol Circle, 2012

A tour exploring the tequila type drinks of Chihuahua

with a grand view of the Copper Canyon and the world renowned train.

Authentic Copper Canyon

The spirits of the Copper Canyon region are several and delicious. This trip will give a variety of experiences seeing the origins, sipping the drinks and seeing the production (in season) of sotol, lechuguilla, tesguino, and perhaps bacanora or pulque.

Here is a brief itinerary:

Day 1- Fly into El Paso and travel to Janos to experience Don Cuco sotol. Evening in Casas Grandes at the restored hacienda “Casa de Nopal”.

Day 2- Cross the high ranch country towards Copper Canyon and experience local sotol on the way. Evening in Creel.

Day 3- Board the world renowned Copper Canyon train and head through the heart of the canyons to Temoris. Evening meal at a local dive in this village with some sips of various local lechuguilla.

Day 4- Hike down to the train and head for Areponapuchi- more local sotol and lechuguilla. Evening with Lola Mancinas- a great chef and wine maker.

Day 5- Time to experience the gondola and zipline, then off to Chihuahua City through Mennonite country. Evening jaunt to the oldest bar in Chihuahua- Antigua Paz. We stay at the historic “San Felipe el Real”.

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Tentative date for El Paso departure is October 24, 2012

This trip leaves from the El Paso airport and ends in Chihuahua City. Price includes all meals but 4, all transport, guides, hotels. Alcohol not included

Price is $975, single occ add $180.

Deposit is $500 payable to TopTrips, 514 S Edwin, Champaign, Il 61821. Balance due 30 days prior to departure date

There are options for adding on more time in Copper Canyon.

Return transit to El Paso can also be arranged.

Gertrude Stein uttered this grim phrase about Oakland. “There’s no there there”. It does well as a description of the tiny town we always experience on our Copper Canyon tours. While Arepo is near some of the most fantastic views, it is unknown. Though it is right at the Posada Barrancas CHEPE station, no one knows or even bothers to try to pronounce its name. People walk and drive from this village to work the new Divisadero Adventure Park not to mention the hotels and lodges in the area, but it is not on the map.

What IS in Areponapuchi?

First of all, the place is called Arepo. What this little village has is a couple of small stores, some little cabanas- Lolas and Cabanas Diaz and others-, bigger hotels- Mansion Tarahumara and The Mirador- , a little chapel style church, and some 2,000 people.

What is NOT in Arepo?

This little place unlike most towns and cities has no plaza- never has. Beyond this there is no gathering place. There are no side walks along the newly paved main drag that does a big U through the village. Even though hundreds of people walk this road (at their peril) daily for work, there is no walk way.

Obvious need for Arepo:

Seems to me this place is on the verge of having much more population and business activity. The new adventure park, more cabanas springing up and the news of a proposed new resort mean that people and change are coming.

What this hardscrabble little wide spot in the road needs in my view is a central place- like a park or plaza- and good walkways to get there as well as to the places of employment.

More to follow including video and photos.

Jesinia comes to the door. The pure beauty of this little girl flows. She and her sister Daniela live here with there parents. Daniela is actually in school now in Chihuahua- I have no clue how they pay for this.

Little Jesinia says her dad is out working. Fifteen minutes later I am running along the only road in “town” and I flag down Jilo. We set a time in two hours to take a ride. I tell him no group- just me- and he looks a bit downcast. He needs the money from a big group.

Jilo shows up with two gaunt, but sure footed horses and we head up through the pines. Over rock inclines we climb past verdant fields of corn, beans, squash, and potatoes in the Tarahumara ejido.

Heading south from Arepo along the rim.

2011 was a good rain season and the fields are green. Note the goats in the pen at the bottom of the pic.

Then up to incredible vistas…the far green fields of the Pomochi plateau.

There are no views like these Copper ones- take your soul away!

Two hours goes fast and we are back at Mansion Tarahumara.

I pull out 500 pesos (typically a ride is 250)…about $35 USD. To me this is a shy tank of gas, a night out, 1/30th of a mortgage, a low water bill, 10 bottles of Charles Shaw.

But Jilo’s response communicates it is much more to him. He offers change and I say no, kepp it all.

He stares.

Off comes his hat and up go several “Gracias Adios” and he crosses himself over and over.

His eyes are wet.

To Jilo and his family it is food.

Jilo Mancinas at the first communion of his niece at the little church in Areponapuchi.

The food is very good- a bit more American than most places and very tasty. The hospitality is warm and local. The is music and perhaps even a party if it is a holiday.

But the big draw is the view. We usually splurge and get view rooms and they deliver.

Sunset from our rooms at Mansion Tarahumara.

Sunrise from the Mansion Tarahumara porch.

Any time of day at any time of year is a miracle at Mansion Tarahumara.

Dave with Gus Lozano at Noritari on a recent "Blue Corn Express" culinary trip.

I met this skilled guide on the train one day as it rolled up through Copper Canyon. I saw him at a distance talking with some guests. Perhaps I have an aversion to guides who talk all the time and try to tell people all they know about everything in the Sierra Madres. I liked the way this guy dealt with people and that day I introduced myself. Today we are good friends and Gustavo is an essential part of our team.

Years ago I heard Bill Hybels at Willow Creek in Chicago say that he looked for three qualities in a potential hire: Character, Competency, and Chemistry.

I use this approach to adding to my team…and Gustavo has these qualities in spades.

Huarachis worn by a little Tarahumara man. Miguelito, who came with his donkey to sell vegetables at Cabanas Diaz in Areponapuchi.

 Often Tarahumara feet will be dry, crusted, and sometimes a little wounded from banging around the hills in these things. They do protect pretty well actually and seem to work year round.

These feet of a woman along the train at San Rafael have seen many miles.

How to tie huarachis:

I am going to do this by showing you a series of photos. I met this guy at theDivisadero train stop one day last year and he had a new pair- you can easily get the details on how to tie them:

The freshness of the foods and nearness of the markets is one cool aspect of this cuisine. Limes for example are often just steps away…

Fresh limes are often available just out the door of one of the Chihuahua kitchens.

Another aspect of this food scene is the Tarahumaras. Often we stop in one of their homes and about as often we are offered food. One morning we dropped in Paula’s home near Gallego above Cerocahui. The whole main room was full of fresh baked smells. Cooking on the calendon in the corner over a wood fire were fresh tortillas…which we all enjoyed immensely thanks to our gracious host.

Fresh tortillas at Paula's place near Gallego.

There are so many experiences to be had like these.

Here is the itinerary for “The Blue Corn Express” this October:

The Blue Corn Express

Culinary Trip

An Authentic Copper Canyon train trip with a huge taste of the delicious Norteño foods

October 2-9, 2010 

The incredible train experience in Copper Canyon plus much more:

·       Many food treats and experiences including an overnight at Noritari, high in the Sierra Madres, dinners in local homes, recipes etc.

·       Two nights in the enchanting El Fuerte with its market, ceviche, organic farm, and petro glyphs

·       Cerocahui- a lovely little town and visits to the Copper vistas, waterfalls, Tarahumara homes, the village of Urique at the bottom of Copper and a bowl of the local “agua chile”

·       Divisadero and the tiny ranchito Cabanas Diaz- come hungry!

·       The Mennonite areas with the vast apple orchards and world famous cheeses…and pizza

·       Chihuahua City, with the Pancho Villa home, great restaurants, the 1700s cathedral

Saturday, Oct 2 – You arrive in Chihuahua City (CUU) and we check into the historic boutique hotel, the San Felipe el Real. Stroll the historic district and the vast market. Dinner and drinks at 6p and a chance to get acquainted.

Chihuahua City- This bustling hub for commerce has its roots as a mining and ranching center. Several fascinating museums (including the Pancho Villa home) gather around the towering 1700s cathedral. The food here is a bit eclectic and reflects the melting pot that Chihuahuahas become. We have options here for dining in a home or to have a local chef cater to the hotel.

Sunday, Oct 3 – We are up early for a quick breakfast and off to catch the train into the mountains. Winding our way into the Sierra Madre, we drop into several little villages and then arrive at the relaxing wooded Noritari near San Juanito- a unique cabin style hotel with a gourmet cook. A great night to enjoy dinner, chat with the chef, and take a stroll through the mountains.

              Noritari- This unique 80 hectare site is dotted with cabins with fireplaces, private baths, solar lighting- the nearby a stream flows and the pines whisper. Enjoy.

Monday, Oct 4 – Up for coffee with a relaxing breakfast in the pines and off to catch the train at 11a. Perhaps a chance to shop in Creel- then board the train and head southwest up into the mountains. Winding our way into the Sierra Madre, we get our first whistle-stop, eye-popping view of Copper Canyon at Divisadero…and a great taste of the local food vendors. We are met at the Bahuichivo station by the jovial Alberto Lopez and take the short ride to the enchanting village of Cerocahui. We have the afternoon open to stroll the plaza and streets of “Cero” or take in the local waterfall or whatever- just relax. Our hosts love to can local fruits and vegetables and always have a local dish cooking in the kitch- there is even a wood strove!

              Cerocahui- This quiet little town sits in a beautiful valley and is a great place to overnight. We stay right on the square- a great place to relax in the evening in the shadow of the ancient church.

Tuesday, Oct 5- We have a big day today as we will head for the bottom of the canyon down an exciting road to the tiny town of Urique. A highlight for lunchis “agua chile”- perhaps the most tasty shrimp dish you have ever experienced. We can watch Tita and her crew prepare this dish- including ingredients you have never heard of! We head back to the train and board for an amazing afternoon journey through the heart of Copper Canyon. Have your camera ready. We arrive for a late dinner at a delicious local taco stand in El Fuerte and a two night stay- one of the favorite spots on the trip

Wednesday, Oct 6– We have the whole day to enjoy El Fuerte with its colonial buildings and delicious foods. Breakfast in the market (birria anyone?) then a float trip to see the birdlife and petro glyphs along the Rio Fuerte. A visit to the market here is a must, a long sit on the palm lined fountained plaza will do, perhaps a visit to the organic farm, then dinner in a local home with our host Evangelina. Food highlights here are the local ceviche stands, the meat tacos and soups in the market, and the local restaurants- some of the best on the trip.

Evangelina- This lovely lady with her brother and extended family live in one of the historic mansions off the square in El Fuerte. We often dine with them and get a full taste of some genuine Copper Canyon hospitality.

Thursday, Oct 7 – We are up for a last visit to the market for breakfast thenreboard the train for the tunnel- filled journey toward our evening destination, Areponápuchi (Posada Barranca station). Dinner with our hosts, Armando and Herlinda Diaz as well as perhaps a walk up to watch the sunset over the vast reaches of Copper Canyon. “Arepo”as we call it, is officially “nowhere Mexico”. The area around Arepo gives us a good long look at Copper Canyon, and we have plenty of time to look around….and work off the delicious ranch food we will enjoy right in the Diaz kitchen.

              Areponápuchi- … don’t expect the big city. This tiny place sits near the rim of some of the best views of Copper Canyon. From here you can walk or ride horses in and around the great canyon. Also a good place to pick up local souvenirs. Local vegetables and meats are a treat here- this is ranch country.

Friday, Oct 8 - Sunrise at the edge of Copper anyone? Breakfastand a walk down through a Tarahumara cave dwelling. Some last views of the canyon, then we catch our van for the trip through the Mennonite agricultural area (vast apple areas and some of their delicious pizza for lunch) toward the big apple- Chihuahua City. Dinner together and perhaps an evening view of the gigantic cathedral in the central plaza.

Mennonites- They migrated here from Canadaaround 1922 and have transformed the high plateaus into some of the most productive land in Chihauhua. Still German speakers, they produce apples, oats, and dairy products- the famous white Chihuahua cheese.

Saturday, Oct 9 – A hearty breakfast and some time to look around Chihuahua City. Then catch our flights home. (Options available to stay an extra day or two in Chihuahua.

Pricing and details for October 2-9, 2010

Authentic Copper Canyon Trip

“The Blue Corn Express”

·       For pricing call Dave at 217.369.9897 – we can supply pricing including airfare and trip insurance from your local city.

·       Food experiences on the trip will be numerous and fun for all. The ones mentioned in this itinerary are not guaranteed, and typically our trips include much more than described here.

·       All hotels have private baths, hot water and linens and most have air conditioning- ones without air are in the mountains.

·       Hotels range from 3.5 star range to simpler cabana style places in the small towns. All are secure, clean, and have comfortable beds.

·       Price includes all transport to and from the Chihuahua City airport, all meals except 4 (alcohol on your own), and all entry and guides to places in the itinerary.

·       Arrangements can be made for guests to stay over for an extra day or more in Chihuahua City.

·       Travel insurance including medical and evacuation coverage is strongly encouraged

·       Your lead guide is Dave Hensleigh and we will also be accompanied by various local guides along the way

·       Most guests bring $200 -400 USD in pesos for the 4 meals, incidentals, souvenirs, and small tips- primary gratuities are included.

·       ACC will supply a bring list, an FAQ sheet, etc for other questions

·       Cutoff for registration and deposit is August 1, 2010.

For more info, registration and deposit, contact Dave Hensleigh, davehensleigh@gmail.com, 217.369.9897

The journey down to Batopilas- here is a snippet:

People talk about the drive down to the town of Batopilas deep in the Copper Canyon as a “white knuckle” trip invoking phrases like “death road” as their eyes widen. This is because of the narrow and bumpy condition of the steep and mostly-dirt road that descends 6,000 feet in six miles–and because of the conspicuous lack of guard rails (or guard anything) between you and the sheer drop-offs into the abyss that exist all along the way.

Of course, we had to do it.

Read it all at Death Drive (sort of) to Batopilas – Copper Canyon, Chihuahua, Mexico (Part 5)

Karen and Eric at Mirador.

I think they are in Beliz now…and the journey goes on!

Eric shooting at Paquime near Casas Grandes.

The way these two operate, the schedule is flex, the food will be tried, the good light will be waited for, the people will be met and enjoyed, the sunset will be taken in, the beer will be quaffed, the laughing will linger…you get the idea. Best “guests”- they seem like family now- I ever had.

Watch in the next few days for articles on Copper by this creative and hard working duo in your major newspapers- and perhaps a few bootlegged copies in your Schenectady (sp) Paralyzer (sp).

Eric studying Tarahumara weaver at Posada.

One of the pics in the blog is of this little lady weaving at the remote station at Posada Barrancas (near Areponapuchi). I was amazed to see him sit for an extended time taking in her skill…as Karen sat and scratched notes. We were all waiting for the train going westward.

What is largely ignored is the wealth of culinary delights which originated and now can be enjoyed in the north- especially Chihuahua. Its called Norteno food.

The Basics of Chihauhau Cuisine

This is cowboy country and much of the food reflects that. It is simple, hearty, Meat and vegetable oriented- this is not fine wine country. There are also the direct influences of the Tarahumara Indians (not the Incas) and the Mennonites who migrated there in 1922.

Distinctives of Norteno Foods

Meats are big – including Machacha seen here drying on the ceiling at Cabanas Diaz in Areponapuchi. Also alot of poultry and pork are enjoyed- even goat (cabrito).

The burrito stands will have a wide variety of meats to enjoy. Also the little sandwiches- tortas are often filled with locally prepared meats.

In the markets, be sure to seek out the meat markets- they can be a little smelly, but they give you as great view of all the cuts of meat- including heads, tongues, heart, kidney, etc.

Another distinctive is the wide use of vebetables- especially in the stews or caldos. Carrots, onions, beans, tomatos,etc fill these delicious caldos- and they are often the main dish.

Warm chicken stew at Cabanas Diaz

More on these delights of Chihuahua later.

Remember that you can enjoy and learn about these great foods on our culinary trip called “The Blue Corn Express”.