Here are some highlights for each season.

Spring- very dry and weather is easy to handle.

Summer- starting July 1 or so it rains often. This greens everything up and the water falls flow.

Fall- green and cool- some think this is the ideal season, but it can get stormy.

Winter- nice at lower elevations. We might get a snow at higher places.

Here is our 2012 calendar for Copper Canyon tours- including both New Years trips.

1. Copper Canyon is so huge.

It is hard to get your mind around how vast this place is...several canyons deeper and bigger than our Grand Canyon.

2. The Rarámuri or Tarahumara- the indigenous people.

My little friend "Once" from Carichic- one of the some 70,000 Raramuri in the Sierra Nevadas- truly a "people apart".

3. The train through Copper Canyon- CHEPE.

This amazing railway stretches across the rugged Copper Canyon and includes 37 bridges and 86 tunnels.

4. The little towns – the heart of rural Chihuahua.

The main dreg of the tiny village of Cuiteco- one that few tourists ever visit or even notice.

5. History and lore abound in Copper Canyon.

The old church in Cerocahui- the mission dates to the late 1500s.

6. Adventure travel options abound in Copper Canyon.

Copper Canyon has ziplines, rock climbing, horse riding, hiking...and some of the best remote swimming holes on the planet.

7. The food in Chihuahua is unique- very different from other parts of Mexico.

One of the great dishes of the Sierras- Agua Chile- more shrimp than you can finish!

8. The Mata Ortiz pottery…a true treasure of the Sierra Madres!

Juan Quezada with Dave Hensleigh in his studio at Mata Ortiz.

9. Oh the view from those ridges in Copper Canyon!

The views go on forever in this amazing place.

10. Our team of local Mexican guides there can give you the best in a Copper Canyon tour.

Alfredo Murillo...the fave of many of our Copper Canyon guests.

So join us soon in this majestic place!

Call Dave today at 217.369.9897 or email davehensleigh@gmail.com to get on board.

Jesinia comes to the door. The pure beauty of this little girl flows. She and her sister Daniela live here with there parents. Daniela is actually in school now in Chihuahua- I have no clue how they pay for this.

Little Jesinia says her dad is out working. Fifteen minutes later I am running along the only road in “town” and I flag down Jilo. We set a time in two hours to take a ride. I tell him no group- just me- and he looks a bit downcast. He needs the money from a big group.

Jilo shows up with two gaunt, but sure footed horses and we head up through the pines. Over rock inclines we climb past verdant fields of corn, beans, squash, and potatoes in the Tarahumara ejido.

Heading south from Arepo along the rim.

2011 was a good rain season and the fields are green. Note the goats in the pen at the bottom of the pic.

Then up to incredible vistas…the far green fields of the Pomochi plateau.

There are no views like these Copper ones- take your soul away!

Two hours goes fast and we are back at Mansion Tarahumara.

I pull out 500 pesos (typically a ride is 250)…about $35 USD. To me this is a shy tank of gas, a night out, 1/30th of a mortgage, a low water bill, 10 bottles of Charles Shaw.

But Jilo’s response communicates it is much more to him. He offers change and I say no, kepp it all.

He stares.

Off comes his hat and up go several “Gracias Adios” and he crosses himself over and over.

His eyes are wet.

To Jilo and his family it is food.

Jilo Mancinas at the first communion of his niece at the little church in Areponapuchi.

So one day I was on the train rolling up toward the mountains from the west. And I thought- the foods of this place are one of the real highlights- and people really enjoy the markets, the little ranch kitchens, and the street food.

So why not have a culinary trip here?

So…we started planning and last fall the first ever “Blue Corn Express” rolled through Copper Canyon- it was a raging success!

The next culinary trip is coming up April 30 – May 7, 2011.

A "discada" on a ledge high above Copper Canyon.

These culinary trips are not in a class format like many other trips. Quite to the contrary they are an experiential immersion into the actual eateries of the area and an up close learning trip with local cooks and experienced chefs in the area.

The Blue Corn Express is a week long food experience as well as a full dose of the train and the Copper Canyon culture- the Tarahumaras, the music, the small towns, etc.

Dave with Gus Lozano at Noritari on a recent "Blue Corn Express" culinary trip.

I met this skilled guide on the train one day as it rolled up through Copper Canyon. I saw him at a distance talking with some guests. Perhaps I have an aversion to guides who talk all the time and try to tell people all they know about everything in the Sierra Madres. I liked the way this guy dealt with people and that day I introduced myself. Today we are good friends and Gustavo is an essential part of our team.

Years ago I heard Bill Hybels at Willow Creek in Chicago say that he looked for three qualities in a potential hire: Character, Competency, and Chemistry.

I use this approach to adding to my team…and Gustavo has these qualities in spades.

Celso at Don Cuco Sotol showing us sotol and blue agave (tequila) plants.

Breakfast salad at Sol's kitchen at Noritari.

The first ever culinary trip to the Copper Canyon area went off a few weeks ago and was a huge success. We made our first stop at Don Cuco sotol near Janos and got the royal tour, a grand lunch around the table in the family hacienda, and had the chance to pick up some of this delicious liquor. Then we made our way down to San Juanito and ate like kings from the kitchen of Chef Sol at Noritari.

After some tamale making and delicious agua chile in the Cerocahui area, we spent two days feasting in the enchanting El Fuerte. The back to Lolas and the grand views in the Arepo area, some fine dishes as we overlooked Chihuahua City and home- wow, what a culinary experience!!!

The grounds at Noritari are arrayed with pottery and artwork and flowers of all kinds.

Cabins:

The cabins are cozy and well decorated. They have solar lighting and sit among the pines above the stream.

Food:

The food is creative and out of theis world. Sol the owner and chef is always coming up with dishes that make me ask “Que es ese?” and then leave me not caring what it is because to is sooooooo good. Elsewhere in this blog I have described her coffee…she even makes that thin milky Mexican oatmeal to die for.

Sol’s food motto: “Aroma and flavor. Period”

Sol at Noritari with her morning basket of fresh squash blossoms (Flor de calabacitas) which will probably end up in your eggs or soup or whatever.

Most people are not familiar with sotol, but it is truly THE drink of Chihuahua, being made from the sotol plants that grow in this high desert. As the days go on , this fine drink in its various forms are found more and more in our liquor stores here in the US.

The kind of personal affability you see here in Celso is typical…a gracious man.  We regularly stop here on our Copper Canyon train trips…and now on our new culinary trip, “The Blue Corn Express”.

Flor de Calabacitas bring fragrance and flavor to Chihuahua homes this time of year.

The unique foods of the Norteño area and Copper Canyon include the lovely and fragrant squash blossoms….flor de calabacitas. They are harvested in the late summer time when the rains push the brown/tan valleys and mountains into a verdant miracle.

The Fall is a great time for The Blue Corn Express culinary trip for many reasons…one of which is that we can enjoy this culinary delight.

The aroma is light as these yellow flowers are gathered in baskets early in the day. Their use is in canned vegetables, with eggs, in soups …anywhere you want a light addition to a flavorful dish.

Flor de Calabacitas are readily available in the markets early in the day - especially in the rainy season.

The freshness of the foods and nearness of the markets is one cool aspect of this cuisine. Limes for example are often just steps away…

Fresh limes are often available just out the door of one of the Chihuahua kitchens.

Another aspect of this food scene is the Tarahumaras. Often we stop in one of their homes and about as often we are offered food. One morning we dropped in Paula’s home near Gallego above Cerocahui. The whole main room was full of fresh baked smells. Cooking on the calendon in the corner over a wood fire were fresh tortillas…which we all enjoyed immensely thanks to our gracious host.

Fresh tortillas at Paula's place near Gallego.

There are so many experiences to be had like these.

Here is the itinerary for “The Blue Corn Express” this October:

The Blue Corn Express

Culinary Trip

An Authentic Copper Canyon train trip with a huge taste of the delicious Norteño foods

October 2-9, 2010 

The incredible train experience in Copper Canyon plus much more:

·       Many food treats and experiences including an overnight at Noritari, high in the Sierra Madres, dinners in local homes, recipes etc.

·       Two nights in the enchanting El Fuerte with its market, ceviche, organic farm, and petro glyphs

·       Cerocahui- a lovely little town and visits to the Copper vistas, waterfalls, Tarahumara homes, the village of Urique at the bottom of Copper and a bowl of the local “agua chile”

·       Divisadero and the tiny ranchito Cabanas Diaz- come hungry!

·       The Mennonite areas with the vast apple orchards and world famous cheeses…and pizza

·       Chihuahua City, with the Pancho Villa home, great restaurants, the 1700s cathedral

Saturday, Oct 2 – You arrive in Chihuahua City (CUU) and we check into the historic boutique hotel, the San Felipe el Real. Stroll the historic district and the vast market. Dinner and drinks at 6p and a chance to get acquainted.

Chihuahua City- This bustling hub for commerce has its roots as a mining and ranching center. Several fascinating museums (including the Pancho Villa home) gather around the towering 1700s cathedral. The food here is a bit eclectic and reflects the melting pot that Chihuahuahas become. We have options here for dining in a home or to have a local chef cater to the hotel.

Sunday, Oct 3 – We are up early for a quick breakfast and off to catch the train into the mountains. Winding our way into the Sierra Madre, we drop into several little villages and then arrive at the relaxing wooded Noritari near San Juanito- a unique cabin style hotel with a gourmet cook. A great night to enjoy dinner, chat with the chef, and take a stroll through the mountains.

              Noritari- This unique 80 hectare site is dotted with cabins with fireplaces, private baths, solar lighting- the nearby a stream flows and the pines whisper. Enjoy.

Monday, Oct 4 – Up for coffee with a relaxing breakfast in the pines and off to catch the train at 11a. Perhaps a chance to shop in Creel- then board the train and head southwest up into the mountains. Winding our way into the Sierra Madre, we get our first whistle-stop, eye-popping view of Copper Canyon at Divisadero…and a great taste of the local food vendors. We are met at the Bahuichivo station by the jovial Alberto Lopez and take the short ride to the enchanting village of Cerocahui. We have the afternoon open to stroll the plaza and streets of “Cero” or take in the local waterfall or whatever- just relax. Our hosts love to can local fruits and vegetables and always have a local dish cooking in the kitch- there is even a wood strove!

              Cerocahui- This quiet little town sits in a beautiful valley and is a great place to overnight. We stay right on the square- a great place to relax in the evening in the shadow of the ancient church.

Tuesday, Oct 5- We have a big day today as we will head for the bottom of the canyon down an exciting road to the tiny town of Urique. A highlight for lunchis “agua chile”- perhaps the most tasty shrimp dish you have ever experienced. We can watch Tita and her crew prepare this dish- including ingredients you have never heard of! We head back to the train and board for an amazing afternoon journey through the heart of Copper Canyon. Have your camera ready. We arrive for a late dinner at a delicious local taco stand in El Fuerte and a two night stay- one of the favorite spots on the trip

Wednesday, Oct 6– We have the whole day to enjoy El Fuerte with its colonial buildings and delicious foods. Breakfast in the market (birria anyone?) then a float trip to see the birdlife and petro glyphs along the Rio Fuerte. A visit to the market here is a must, a long sit on the palm lined fountained plaza will do, perhaps a visit to the organic farm, then dinner in a local home with our host Evangelina. Food highlights here are the local ceviche stands, the meat tacos and soups in the market, and the local restaurants- some of the best on the trip.

Evangelina- This lovely lady with her brother and extended family live in one of the historic mansions off the square in El Fuerte. We often dine with them and get a full taste of some genuine Copper Canyon hospitality.

Thursday, Oct 7 – We are up for a last visit to the market for breakfast thenreboard the train for the tunnel- filled journey toward our evening destination, Areponápuchi (Posada Barranca station). Dinner with our hosts, Armando and Herlinda Diaz as well as perhaps a walk up to watch the sunset over the vast reaches of Copper Canyon. “Arepo”as we call it, is officially “nowhere Mexico”. The area around Arepo gives us a good long look at Copper Canyon, and we have plenty of time to look around….and work off the delicious ranch food we will enjoy right in the Diaz kitchen.

              Areponápuchi- … don’t expect the big city. This tiny place sits near the rim of some of the best views of Copper Canyon. From here you can walk or ride horses in and around the great canyon. Also a good place to pick up local souvenirs. Local vegetables and meats are a treat here- this is ranch country.

Friday, Oct 8 - Sunrise at the edge of Copper anyone? Breakfastand a walk down through a Tarahumara cave dwelling. Some last views of the canyon, then we catch our van for the trip through the Mennonite agricultural area (vast apple areas and some of their delicious pizza for lunch) toward the big apple- Chihuahua City. Dinner together and perhaps an evening view of the gigantic cathedral in the central plaza.

Mennonites- They migrated here from Canadaaround 1922 and have transformed the high plateaus into some of the most productive land in Chihauhua. Still German speakers, they produce apples, oats, and dairy products- the famous white Chihuahua cheese.

Saturday, Oct 9 – A hearty breakfast and some time to look around Chihuahua City. Then catch our flights home. (Options available to stay an extra day or two in Chihuahua.

Pricing and details for October 2-9, 2010

Authentic Copper Canyon Trip

“The Blue Corn Express”

·       For pricing call Dave at 217.369.9897 – we can supply pricing including airfare and trip insurance from your local city.

·       Food experiences on the trip will be numerous and fun for all. The ones mentioned in this itinerary are not guaranteed, and typically our trips include much more than described here.

·       All hotels have private baths, hot water and linens and most have air conditioning- ones without air are in the mountains.

·       Hotels range from 3.5 star range to simpler cabana style places in the small towns. All are secure, clean, and have comfortable beds.

·       Price includes all transport to and from the Chihuahua City airport, all meals except 4 (alcohol on your own), and all entry and guides to places in the itinerary.

·       Arrangements can be made for guests to stay over for an extra day or more in Chihuahua City.

·       Travel insurance including medical and evacuation coverage is strongly encouraged

·       Your lead guide is Dave Hensleigh and we will also be accompanied by various local guides along the way

·       Most guests bring $200 -400 USD in pesos for the 4 meals, incidentals, souvenirs, and small tips- primary gratuities are included.

·       ACC will supply a bring list, an FAQ sheet, etc for other questions

·       Cutoff for registration and deposit is August 1, 2010.

For more info, registration and deposit, contact Dave Hensleigh, davehensleigh@gmail.com, 217.369.9897