The indiginous people (the Raramuri of “Born to Run” barefoot running fame) live throughout the canyons and are a mysterious wonder.

There are colonial villages, delicate pottery, Pancho Villa history, etc.

But I think one of the really untouched parts of this place is the street food. From Chihuahua to the stop on the train at Divisadero to the markets in El Fuerte and Los Mochis- the food on the street from the vendors is perfect.

Two of my faves:

1. The vendors at the market in El Fuerte get rolling every morning at about 6a. The goat soup is beyond belief and every kind of taco under the sun can be had for a pittance. (see video above).

2.  Lola Mancinas at Areponapuchi. Lola has this way with simple food- like a little bowl of fruit she has canned or a slab of chicken breast.

Lola and I at one of her delicious discadas on the canyon wall

Here are some highlights for each season.

Spring- very dry and weather is easy to handle.

Summer- starting July 1 or so it rains often. This greens everything up and the water falls flow.

Fall- green and cool- some think this is the ideal season, but it can get stormy.

Winter- nice at lower elevations. We might get a snow at higher places.

Here is our 2012 calendar for Copper Canyon tours- including both New Years trips.

1. Copper Canyon is so huge.

It is hard to get your mind around how vast this place is...several canyons deeper and bigger than our Grand Canyon.

2. The Rarámuri or Tarahumara- the indigenous people.

My little friend "Once" from Carichic- one of the some 70,000 Raramuri in the Sierra Nevadas- truly a "people apart".

3. The train through Copper Canyon- CHEPE.

This amazing railway stretches across the rugged Copper Canyon and includes 37 bridges and 86 tunnels.

4. The little towns – the heart of rural Chihuahua.

The main dreg of the tiny village of Cuiteco- one that few tourists ever visit or even notice.

5. History and lore abound in Copper Canyon.

The old church in Cerocahui- the mission dates to the late 1500s.

6. Adventure travel options abound in Copper Canyon.

Copper Canyon has ziplines, rock climbing, horse riding, hiking...and some of the best remote swimming holes on the planet.

7. The food in Chihuahua is unique- very different from other parts of Mexico.

One of the great dishes of the Sierras- Agua Chile- more shrimp than you can finish!

8. The Mata Ortiz pottery…a true treasure of the Sierra Madres!

Juan Quezada with Dave Hensleigh in his studio at Mata Ortiz.

9. Oh the view from those ridges in Copper Canyon!

The views go on forever in this amazing place.

10. Our team of local Mexican guides there can give you the best in a Copper Canyon tour.

Alfredo Murillo...the fave of many of our Copper Canyon guests.

So join us soon in this majestic place!

Call Dave today at 217.369.9897 or email davehensleigh@gmail.com to get on board.

Jesinia comes to the door. The pure beauty of this little girl flows. She and her sister Daniela live here with there parents. Daniela is actually in school now in Chihuahua- I have no clue how they pay for this.

Little Jesinia says her dad is out working. Fifteen minutes later I am running along the only road in “town” and I flag down Jilo. We set a time in two hours to take a ride. I tell him no group- just me- and he looks a bit downcast. He needs the money from a big group.

Jilo shows up with two gaunt, but sure footed horses and we head up through the pines. Over rock inclines we climb past verdant fields of corn, beans, squash, and potatoes in the Tarahumara ejido.

Heading south from Arepo along the rim.

2011 was a good rain season and the fields are green. Note the goats in the pen at the bottom of the pic.

Then up to incredible vistas…the far green fields of the Pomochi plateau.

There are no views like these Copper ones- take your soul away!

Two hours goes fast and we are back at Mansion Tarahumara.

I pull out 500 pesos (typically a ride is 250)…about $35 USD. To me this is a shy tank of gas, a night out, 1/30th of a mortgage, a low water bill, 10 bottles of Charles Shaw.

But Jilo’s response communicates it is much more to him. He offers change and I say no, kepp it all.

He stares.

Off comes his hat and up go several “Gracias Adios” and he crosses himself over and over.

His eyes are wet.

To Jilo and his family it is food.

Jilo Mancinas at the first communion of his niece at the little church in Areponapuchi.

So one day I was on the train rolling up toward the mountains from the west. And I thought- the foods of this place are one of the real highlights- and people really enjoy the markets, the little ranch kitchens, and the street food.

So why not have a culinary trip here?

So…we started planning and last fall the first ever “Blue Corn Express” rolled through Copper Canyon- it was a raging success!

The next culinary trip is coming up April 30 – May 7, 2011.

A "discada" on a ledge high above Copper Canyon.

These culinary trips are not in a class format like many other trips. Quite to the contrary they are an experiential immersion into the actual eateries of the area and an up close learning trip with local cooks and experienced chefs in the area.

The Blue Corn Express is a week long food experience as well as a full dose of the train and the Copper Canyon culture- the Tarahumaras, the music, the small towns, etc.

Dave with Gus Lozano at Noritari on a recent "Blue Corn Express" culinary trip.

I met this skilled guide on the train one day as it rolled up through Copper Canyon. I saw him at a distance talking with some guests. Perhaps I have an aversion to guides who talk all the time and try to tell people all they know about everything in the Sierra Madres. I liked the way this guy dealt with people and that day I introduced myself. Today we are good friends and Gustavo is an essential part of our team.

Years ago I heard Bill Hybels at Willow Creek in Chicago say that he looked for three qualities in a potential hire: Character, Competency, and Chemistry.

I use this approach to adding to my team…and Gustavo has these qualities in spades.

Celso at Don Cuco Sotol showing us sotol and blue agave (tequila) plants.

Breakfast salad at Sol's kitchen at Noritari.

The first ever culinary trip to the Copper Canyon area went off a few weeks ago and was a huge success. We made our first stop at Don Cuco sotol near Janos and got the royal tour, a grand lunch around the table in the family hacienda, and had the chance to pick up some of this delicious liquor. Then we made our way down to San Juanito and ate like kings from the kitchen of Chef Sol at Noritari.

After some tamale making and delicious agua chile in the Cerocahui area, we spent two days feasting in the enchanting El Fuerte. The back to Lolas and the grand views in the Arepo area, some fine dishes as we overlooked Chihuahua City and home- wow, what a culinary experience!!!

The grounds at Noritari are arrayed with pottery and artwork and flowers of all kinds.

Cabins:

The cabins are cozy and well decorated. They have solar lighting and sit among the pines above the stream.

Food:

The food is creative and out of theis world. Sol the owner and chef is always coming up with dishes that make me ask “Que es ese?” and then leave me not caring what it is because to is sooooooo good. Elsewhere in this blog I have described her coffee…she even makes that thin milky Mexican oatmeal to die for.

Sol’s food motto: “Aroma and flavor. Period”

Sol at Noritari with her morning basket of fresh squash blossoms (Flor de calabacitas) which will probably end up in your eggs or soup or whatever.

Most people are not familiar with sotol, but it is truly THE drink of Chihuahua, being made from the sotol plants that grow in this high desert. As the days go on , this fine drink in its various forms are found more and more in our liquor stores here in the US.

The kind of personal affability you see here in Celso is typical…a gracious man.  We regularly stop here on our Copper Canyon train trips…and now on our new culinary trip, “The Blue Corn Express”.

Flor de Calabacitas bring fragrance and flavor to Chihuahua homes this time of year.

The unique foods of the Norteño area and Copper Canyon include the lovely and fragrant squash blossoms….flor de calabacitas. They are harvested in the late summer time when the rains push the brown/tan valleys and mountains into a verdant miracle.

The Fall is a great time for The Blue Corn Express culinary trip for many reasons…one of which is that we can enjoy this culinary delight.

The aroma is light as these yellow flowers are gathered in baskets early in the day. Their use is in canned vegetables, with eggs, in soups …anywhere you want a light addition to a flavorful dish.

Flor de Calabacitas are readily available in the markets early in the day - especially in the rainy season.