For quite some time I have had an interest in the tequila type spirits of Chihuahua. Many of our guests have enjoyed the sotol we have experienced there – usually purchased at a roadside liquor store. Often we are able to buy Hacienda brand (also widely available in the USA) or Don Cuco Sotol (rare in Chihuahua and only distributed in four states now).

At other times we have found local sources for non-labeled local brews. In other words bootlegged stuff and we usually can buy it once we get the word out we are looking for it. These local spirits are often delicious and it is interesting how they vary. They vary according to the origin location of the plants used, soil, water, etc. These factors have been well discussed by Ron Cooper and what makes sotol vary will be discussed in another blog soon.

So…we are putting together a trip to explore not just local sotols in Copper Canyon but also the other brews- lechuguilla, bacanora, mescal, etc.

The first ever Sotol Circle

This October 24 leaving from El Paso, Texas, the inaugural edition of “The Sotol Circle” will make a circuit through Chihuahua exploring the spirits of this enchanting area. The itinerary will include Janos and Don Cuco Sotol, Casas Grandes (Mata Ortiz and Paquime), Madera, Creel, Temoris, Areponapuchi, the Mennonite country (not much sotol here), and Chihuahua City- the big apple and home to the vintage saloon, “Antigua Paz” .

Here is the itinerary and some details:

The Sotol Circle, 2012

A tour exploring the tequila type drinks of Chihuahua

with a grand view of the Copper Canyon and the world renowned train.

Authentic Copper Canyon

The spirits of the Copper Canyon region are several and delicious. This trip will give a variety of experiences seeing the origins, sipping the drinks and seeing the production (in season) of sotol, lechuguilla, tesguino, and perhaps bacanora or pulque.

Here is a brief itinerary:

Day 1- Fly into El Paso and travel to Janos to experience Don Cuco sotol. Evening in Casas Grandes at the restored hacienda “Casa de Nopal”.

Day 2- Cross the high ranch country towards Copper Canyon and experience local sotol on the way. Evening in Creel.

Day 3- Board the world renowned Copper Canyon train and head through the heart of the canyons to Temoris. Evening meal at a local dive in this village with some sips of various local lechuguilla.

Day 4- Hike down to the train and head for Areponapuchi- more local sotol and lechuguilla. Evening with Lola Mancinas- a great chef and wine maker.

Day 5- Time to experience the gondola and zipline, then off to Chihuahua City through Mennonite country. Evening jaunt to the oldest bar in Chihuahua- Antigua Paz. We stay at the historic “San Felipe el Real”.

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Tentative date for El Paso departure is October 24, 2012

This trip leaves from the El Paso airport and ends in Chihuahua City. Price includes all meals but 4, all transport, guides, hotels. Alcohol not included

Price is $975, single occ add $180.

Deposit is $500 payable to TopTrips, 514 S Edwin, Champaign, Il 61821. Balance due 30 days prior to departure date

There are options for adding on more time in Copper Canyon.

Return transit to El Paso can also be arranged.

The sun still rises over this Sierra Madre paradise- this shot taken from my hotel room!

Copper Canyon Trip- Here is one of our Fall trips to Copper. We go twice a month and can plan a trip for you at any time!

October 6-15, 2012

This is a planned itinerary and may vary slightly.

Included meals are noted.

Oct 6- Arrive in El Paso. The airport is a good place to get pesos. Use the Travelex near the spot where you turn right to go to the baggage area. Meet our van and we head for Santa Teresa NM (20 minutes) to cross into Mexico. We are off through the high Chihuahuan desert toward Casas Grandes. We check into the historic Casa de Nopal hotel. Stroll through Paquime and dinner at the hotel. (L,D)

The journey- We get an introduction to Norteño food as we travel south through the high elevation of the Chihuahua Desert. Burritos and other delicious street foods will be ours to choose from in the little towns.

Casas Grandes- Right on the edge of Casas are the Paquime Indian archaeological ruins- a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Food in the Casas area- This is the high desert area and truly ranch country. We will eat at an historic hacienda and savor the local restaurants.

Oct 7- We have a relaxed morning and a light breakfast at Casa de Nopal, then off by van through ranch country into the Mennonite area around Cuauhtemoc. Lunch in this unique orchard covered area. We check into the Hotel Tarahumara Inn and enjoy dinner at one of the great local eateries. (B,L)

Mennonites- They migrated here from Canada around 1922 and have transformed the high plateaus into some of the most productive land in Chihuahua. Still German speakers, they produce apples, oats, and dairy products- including the famous white Chihuahua cheese.

Oct 8- Time for breakfast and then to the train to go up into the Sierra Madres. We roll through the mountains to Cerocahui and the little San Isidro lodge. (B,L,D)

Cerocahui- This quiet little town sits in a beautiful valley and is a great place to overnight. We will stay above town nearer to the majestic Gallego overlook.

Oct 9- We have time to go over to Gallego and perhaps down to Urique if we want. . Then we reboard the train for the unsurpassed journey toward our evening destination, El Fuerte. Tunnels, bridges, canyons, mountains…have your cameras ready! Arrive in El Fuerte for dinner…this place is known for incredible food! (B,L)
El Fuerte- A small town with a quaint (and delicious!) market and lots of colonial architecture. History, Indian culture, bird watching, and a palm lined plaza make this place a favorite.
Oct 10 – A full day for relaxing and exploring the area- the wonderful colonial town with lots of opportunities for food and photography. A morning trip to the river for bird watching as we float and a walk through the local petro glyph site. Lunch on your own. The visit to the market here is a must, then dinner in a local home with our host Evangelina. (B,D)

Evangelina- This lovely lady with her brother and extended family live in one of the historic mansions off the square in El Fuerte. We often dine with them and get a full taste of some genuine Copper Canyon hospitality.

Oct 11 - Board the train in the morning headed northeast for Areponapuchi (Posada Barrancas station). We arrive at this tiny town and a local lodge- above the canyon- Mansion Tarahumara. Dinner, relax as well as perhaps watch the sunset over the vast reaches of Copper Canyon. “Arepo”as we call it, is officially “nowhere Mexico”. The area around Arepo gives us a good long look at Copper Canyon, and we have plenty of time to look around. (B,L,D)
Areponapuchi- Just call it Arepo and don’t expect the big city. This tiny place sits near the rim of some of the best views of Copper Canyon. The new gondola and ziplines are a scenic thrill, and you can walk or ride horses in and around the great canyon. Also a good place to pick up local souvenirs.Horses are available here- huge views!

Oct 12– All day to enjoy ziplines, gondola, hiking, etc….and relax! Then off to San Juanito by van and we arrive at the relaxing wooded Noritari near San Juanito- a unique cabin style solar hotel with a gourmet cook. A great night to enjoy dinner, chat with the chef, and take a stroll along the stream through the mountains. (B,L,D)

Noritari- This unique 80 hectare site is dotted with cabins with fireplaces, private baths, solar lighting- the nearby stream flows and the pines whisper.

Oct 13- A relaxing breakfast and then off through the ranch country to Casas Grandes, We return to Casa de Nopal and go directly to Mata Ortiz. Dinner at a local hacienda. (B,D)

Mata Ortiz- - The tiny village of Mata Ortiz is an artistic mecca. The pottery from this area is very special and known around the world for its intricacy and character.

Oct 14-  Relax as we finish what we may have missed. Leave Casas by 2 or 3p and drop into Janos on the way and get a warm welcome and tour with Celso and Emma at Don Cuco sotol. Sotol is THE drink of Chihuahua and is somewhat like tequila- but better…bring some home! We cross back into the USA and  to our El Paso hotel. (B)

Sotol- This stop at Don Cuco will give you a full introduction (including a few sips) to this fine spirit from the enchanting Chihuahua area.

Oct 15- Fly home. (B)

• Price for this trip is $1695 USD per person. Single room, add $300.

• This includes all guides, transport, food, and hotels except your visa, 6 meals, gondola and zipline, and alcohol. I will supply an overview of expected personal expenses.

• Deposit is $500 per  person.

• Payable to TopTrips, 514 South Edwin, Champaign, Il 61821.

The slumping economy, swine flu, the perception of danger, and now the drought and starvation issues have all been tough.

But the Copper Canyon train still rolls, the little towns still smile with hospitality, and this resilient land and people go on.

I look forward to a great 2012 in the Sierra Madres and we expect to double our numbers for our Copper Canyon train tours.

The sun still rises over this Sierra Madre paradise- this shot taken from my hotel room!

Here are some highlights for each season.

Spring- very dry and weather is easy to handle.

Summer- starting July 1 or so it rains often. This greens everything up and the water falls flow.

Fall- green and cool- some think this is the ideal season, but it can get stormy.

Winter- nice at lower elevations. We might get a snow at higher places.

Here is our 2012 calendar for Copper Canyon tours- including both New Years trips.

One of our recent groups taking a break at Gallego above Urique

People are often asking me about the best season to travel on the train in Copper Canyon. That is a hard one because every season has its draw. Fall is nice because it is usually green and the weather is moderate. Late Summer is nice because it usually rains and is very fresh. Spring is dry and usually is not too dusty.

But one season I really like is the holiday season, Christmas in Copper Canyon is hard to beat. The weather is usually cool, though the days at lower elevations can be very warm and nice. There is sometimes snow- a real treat.

The big draw for Navidad in the Sierras though is that the welcoming little towns seem to really carry the Christmas spirit. A trip during this season makes for a great memory.

Our Christmas trip to Copper Canyon will give you a full and personal immersion into the Copper Canyon culture at one of the most memorable times of the year.

And don’t forget- we also have a Sun Bowl Trip leaving El Paso on January 1, 2012!

There is no better way to bring in the New Year than on the train in Copper Canyon.

Back to the Land of the Free and the Home of the Brave.

It was no fun going back across the border. It never is. The smiles are gone. The welcome is over.

It is good to be back to US soil- it always is. But something very vital and valued is missing. Everything is more official, more abrupt. Less smiles.

I am back to the Land of the Free and the Home of the Brave...but it seems like the sun shines brighter in Chihuahua.

What next?

Maybe I will walk those welcoming streets again. Next year? Why not. Why not right now?

Maybe I will go to every border town and amble the streets. I would love to!

Perhaps next year we will walk across and through immigration with 1,000!

Or perhaps back here next year with 1,000 gringos and we all walk across the bridge and infiltrate the area. Swarm it with connection and relationships and receive all that Juarez has to give.

And maybe we will include Juarez in our “Sotol Circle” tour and immerse our guests in the rich history, culture, and hospitality of this place.

And just maybe the door of relationship and love will open a bit and a bright flow of conversation and connection will seep across the Rio Grande (Bravo).

I had fears related to this walk...I wondered. But it was all washed away by the rich welcome I recieved.

Will fear win?

Or fear will win. I am beginning to learn that fear is one of the essential antonyms of love. I think the old book says “Perfect love drives out fear.”

When fear wins along the border, isolation is the default. Fear relies on assumptions to stay alive and the assumptions create a vast ocean across the little Rio Grande. The fear festers in those who do not go there. Ironically there is this huge optimism and commitment to their city in the people of Juarez. And there is resolve to see a difficult situation through. And a little bit of actual amusement at how we nortes think about their city. They shake their heads and smile.

So assumptions grow. Castigation festers. The wall gets fortified and reinforced in every mind. And the only flow across the dry stream bed is the plastic, the apples, the polyester, the silicon, the cocaine and we all remain desperately poor.

Fear makes us build a wall…it is the easiest way out. And it blocks the view of what reality and everyday life is like on the other side.

I think I am beginning to learn to never build a wall against the truth. And absolutely never against a friend.

Berlin, 1969.

I remember touching the Berlin wall. I recall vividly walking through it in 1969 at Checkpoint Charlie, and walking those eastern streets for a few hours. And I recall thinking “You foolish East Germans! You crazy communists! Why would you build a wall?

Memory serves that the wall came down rather quickly after some very wise man yelled. “Tear this wall down!”

Perhaps…

This was a life changing walk.

Welcomed in Juarez.

On the streets of Juarez I was welcomed. At the plaza, in a bar, when I entered a home. People would turn to me with a smile and a hug. Gracious words. Asking about my family. The Mexican way.

I recall this cool Christian preacher I used to know. He would disarm (got to lose that one too) a hostile crowd by walking through it with a smile, arms out welcoming people. Seemed like the Jesus way to do things. I am going to coach my guests- or our Juarez walkers next year to use this approach. Just return a welcome with a welcome and get to know you neighbors. Knock the wall down. Connect.

Actually you know, that special graciousness in Juarez is common in the cities and towns across Chihuahua. Most folks who go to Mexico hit the beach resorts and unfortunately get perhaps just a little taste of rich hospitality that flows in Juarez and across Chihuahua. My guests in Copper Canyon say this is what they remember.  It is usually not the vast canyons (deeper that Grand Canyon), the train (86 tunnels and 37 bridges), etc. It is the friendships they make there. Sure many are a bit hesitant when we cross the frontera. But then they affirm that they feel secure and that the people are what lodge in their memories. Only the jaded and self-absorbed miss this.

A street in west Juarez.

Is it safe to travel in Mexico?

It is incredibly frustrating as the owner of a tour company in Chihuahua to handle all the flow of negativity about travel in Mexico- including the State Department warnings. I have written and videoed about this quite a bit.

Here is the crux of the frustration: There have been zero incidents with tourists in the vast Copper Canyon area. None. Not a one. So how can we do better than zero?

I have two options: either give into fear and assumption or I can engage this twisted, powerful perception with truth.

That’s why I walked across Juarez.

Everywhere you see the message that people are committed to their city.

Well our experience is that it is and while there are concerns, even northern Mexico is much safer than other tourist destinations people use now- such as South Africa and Beliz. Still during this period, Europeans, Australians, Canadians and of course Mexicans are traveling extemsively in the country. Staistics show that tourism to the country has been up in the last 18 months.

I am walking this walk to connect and build a bridge.

Here is the info:

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

Contact: Dave Hensleigh, 217-369-9897

davehensleigh@gmail.com

“One Solitary Gringo” to “Walk across Juarez”

August 18-21, 2011

Walk Across What???

Juarez seems to be the LAST place any sane person would chose to even go to, let alone walk across. Most people assume that my body will end up filled with bullets, decapitated, and hung from some bridge with a scrawled cartel note tied to it.

But the actual situation and threat to US citizens is actually much different than what we expect based on most US press reports. I will walk across this border city from the Rio Grande to the south neighborhoods and simply report what I see moment by moment…and let the results speak some reality into the situation.

Who I am:

I am just “one solitary gringo” walking across Juarez.

I am also the owner and lead guide of Authentic Copper Canyon, the premier supplier of culturally rich small group experiences on the train through Copper Canyon, deeper and more vast than our Grand Canyon and 4 hrs south of Juarez.

I have a deep love and respect for the people and land of Mexico. Our groups often travel through the border in the Juarez/St Teresa area, and I am pursuing this walk as a small step in bringing understanding and connection across the border.

Purpose: To give a clear view of life right now on the streets of Juarez from an outsider’s point of view. People on the US side are filled with negative images only and this will give an actual moment by moment story of what it is actually like on the ground in Juarez.

Plan: Enter Juarez from El Paso by the Bridge of the Americas on Friday morning and simply walk across the city. I will stay overnight, interact with people, etc. Moment by moment I will send pictures, text, audio and videos via twitter and blog to followers across the USA and the world. Then I will follow with more in-depth articles and videos of the experience.

Rationale: Many of us who work or live in Mexico have been frustrated by the one-sided perspective that most US side folks hold to of everyday life in the border areas.

Of course there are serious problems there. Yet when people travel there, almost all of them are amazed at how tranquil it is. So if it is possible to take a larger number of people there via the internet, perhaps they can understand more accurately that actually, there are not serious concerns with tourist travel to Mexico now. More broadly this little journey may help to replace distrust and negativity with respect and interaction.

Perspective: The idea is not to make a political point, but rather to communicate an accurate, on the ground picture of what life is like. I will not carry signs, make political or policy statements, meet with officials, etc. I will simply walk a path across the city to include busy streets, parks, markets, stores, restaurants, etc, and the message will be whatever I experience.

Interestingly as I have been preparing for this walk, 100 % of the people who know something about Juarez have very strong cautions. On the other hand, 100% of the people who live there or who know it well are very positive. Perhaps my observations will help connect these two groups.

Find Dave at www.AuthenticCopperCanyon.com and follow him on twitter @CopperCanyonGuy.

So follow me this week starting Thursday night …

Just get onto twitter and follow @coppercanyonguy and also watch my facebook page.

Walk Across What???

Juarez seems to be the LAST place any sane person would chose to even go to, let alone walk across. Most people assume that my body will end up filled with bullets, decapitated, and hung from some bridge with a scrawled cartel note tied to it.

But the actual situation and threat to US citizens is actually much different than what we expect based on press reports. I will walk across this border city from the Rio Grande to the south neighborhoods and simply report what I see moment by moment…and let the results speak some reality into the situation.

When is this?

 For three days, Friday, August 19 to Sunday August 21, 2011 I will amble through this border city.

Who I am:

I am the owner and lead guide of Authentic Copper Canyon, the premier supplier of culturally rich small group experiences on the train through Copper Canyon, Mexico. I have a deep love and respect for the people and land of Mexico. Our groups often travel through the border in the Juarez/St Teresa area, and I am pursuing this walk as a small step in bringing understanding and connection across the border.

Purpose: To give a clear view of life right now on the streets of Juarez from an outsider’s point of view. People on the US side are filled with negative images only and this will give an actual moment by moment story of what it is actually like on the ground in Juarez.

Certainly some of the impetus for this comes from me and others in the guide community that wonder how we can do better. There have been zero incidents involving tourists and we aren’t sure how to improve that stat. Yet, the overwhelming assumption is that this area is deadly dangerous. The Mexicans there just wag their heads when we discuss it with them…and they often point out what an issue we or other countries have with insecurity and tourism.

Plan: Enter Juarez by the Bridge of the Americas on Thursday evening or Friday morning and simply walk across the city. I will stay overnight, interact with people, etc. Moment by moment I will send pictures, text, audio and videos via twitter and blog to followers across the USA and the world. Then I will follow with more in-depth articles and videos of the experience.

Rational: Many of us who work or live in Mexico have been frustrated by the one-sided perspective that most US side folks hold to of everyday life in the border areas.

Of course there are serious problems there. Yet when people travel there, almost all of them are amazed at how tranquil it is. So if it is possible to take a larger number of people there via the internet, perhaps they can understand more accurately how it is that there are not serious concerns with tourist travel to Mexico now. More broadly this little journey may help to renew respect and interaction.

Perspective: The idea is not to make a political point, but rather to communicate an accurate, on the ground picture of what life is like. I will not carry signs, make political or policy statements, meet with officials, etc. I will simply walk a path across the city to include busy streets, parks, markets, stores, restaurants, etc, and the message will be whatever I experience.

Interestingly as I have been preparing for this walk, 100 % of the people who know something about Juarez have very strong cautions. On the other hand, 100% of the people who live there or who know it well are very positive. Perhaps my observations will help connect those two groups.

Contact:

Dave Hensleigh, 217.369.9897, davehensleigh@gmail.com

Follow on Aug 19, 20, and 21 twitter @CopperCanyonGuy

www.AuthenticCopperCanyon.com

1. “In the Sierra Madre”, Jeff Biggers - This one is a very careful account of his year in the village of Cusásare. Food, customs, language, history…very rich. <here on Amazon.

2. “Born to Run”, Christopher McDougall - This is not just a great read, a biting critique of running shoes, an intro to some Copper Canyon characters (like Micah True/ Caballo Blanco who I met once sometime back in Creel), but also a deep intro to Canyon culture. There is a reason why this book was on the bestseller list. <here on Amazon.

3. Tarahumara: Where Night is the Day of the Moon, Bernard L Fontana. Great book with lots of info and pics ….all about the one tribe who survived the Spanish. <here in Amazon.

4. Mexican Spanish, Lonely Planet, Rafael Carmona. You gotta get this book if you enjoy making a stab at speaking to the locals. Full of all kinds of survival stuff including a big section on food. And it is pocket sized- love it. <here on Amazon.

5. Our book coming soon on Norteño food. The “Blue Corn Express”culinary trip and the chefs associated with it will soon yield the premier book on the delicious hearty foods of the Sierra Madres. <soon on Amazon! Just call your local book publisher and convince them to take on the book.

Carlos Vega in a local home in Temoris. He has connected us to several local cooks who entertain us with their hearty foods.

I was on CHEPE one day headed for El Fuerte when in the cafe car I met a portly affable Mexican named Carlos Vega. One cannot help but be befriended by this guy and he soon volunteered to do some shopping for me for a certain necklace at the upcoming Divisadero market. He explained in an expletive laden string that he could buy it much cheaper than I could…being a Mexican.

Well a few minutes after we left Divis, I found him and sure enough he snagged a very nice hematite piece for under $5 USD.

To make a long story short, Carlos (Carlitos) has become a good friend and has really helped me in developing Temoris as a destination for our Authentic Copper Canyon train trips. Few groups- actually none that I know of go to this place. It is a cool place with great food and little hotels. We have the option there of walking down a scenic  trail to the station- very nice!

Turns out Carlos is a doctor and has had a little practice in Temoris for several years. He works out of a small clinic, carries a converted fishing tackle box with supplies, and often takes canned fruits or other foods in payment.

Carlos Vega at his clinic in Temoris.