Jesinia comes to the door. The pure beauty of this little girl flows. She and her sister Daniela live here with there parents. Daniela is actually in school now in Chihuahua- I have no clue how they pay for this.

Little Jesinia says her dad is out working. Fifteen minutes later I am running along the only road in “town” and I flag down Jilo. We set a time in two hours to take a ride. I tell him no group- just me- and he looks a bit downcast. He needs the money from a big group.

Jilo shows up with two gaunt, but sure footed horses and we head up through the pines. Over rock inclines we climb past verdant fields of corn, beans, squash, and potatoes in the Tarahumara ejido.

Heading south from Arepo along the rim.

2011 was a good rain season and the fields are green. Note the goats in the pen at the bottom of the pic.

Then up to incredible vistas…the far green fields of the Pomochi plateau.

There are no views like these Copper ones- take your soul away!

Two hours goes fast and we are back at Mansion Tarahumara.

I pull out 500 pesos (typically a ride is 250)…about $35 USD. To me this is a shy tank of gas, a night out, 1/30th of a mortgage, a low water bill, 10 bottles of Charles Shaw.

But Jilo’s response communicates it is much more to him. He offers change and I say no, kepp it all.

He stares.

Off comes his hat and up go several “Gracias Adios” and he crosses himself over and over.

His eyes are wet.

To Jilo and his family it is food.

Jilo Mancinas at the first communion of his niece at the little church in Areponapuchi.

Two years ago, the bestseller “Born to Run“  by Christopher McDougall was published and now one sees barefoot running shoes in every sports outlet and magazine. My “Runners World” regularly features ads and articles related to this craze.

People ask me, “Do they really run?” The answer is yes they do…and it is amazing to see. They are so fluid and smooth and quick- it is like they are gliding. The Copper Canyon Ultramarathon is usually won by Tarahumaras in both the men and women’s runs.

These Tarahumara feet were made for running...and thats just what they do!

1. People who want to pave their own road with an intelligent, personal guide who knows and loves the place. They like the flex itinerary approach.

2. They want to be fully immersed in the culture, not just sightsee. Big buses are not the deal.

3. They want to “get out of town” completely so that they can really take in the little towns along the train…towns where no groups and few gringos ever go.

4. They want 100% scenic route and they are really curious so that they see what is there. They are into “local”.

5. They nurture a casual inquisitive approach…they are not there so much to be on vacation as to learn and come back a different person.

6. They don’t like places full of big loud tourists- or big loud anything. They are not in a hurry – like it is ok if a meal lasts all evening.

7.They know they are visitors, but they mix freely with Mexicans and Tarahumaras. Though they don’t know Spanish or Raramuri lingo, conversations happen.

8. They like the magic of trains…they don’t read a novel on the train.

9. They like traveling at a reasonable price and have some pocket money to come home with Mata Ortiz pottery, some Tarahumara baskets…and maybe even a bottle or two of Sotol!

Come travel with Authentic Copper Canyon...you will love it!

The Tarahumara woman featured on this video is one of my favorites.

They sit silently, three generations of them, on a ridge high above the roaring Orteros. Their hands are busy with an ancient craft. The only sound is the low chatter of children, an occasional fly, and the river. The baskets they are making this morning are of sotol leaves (from the plant that is fermented and distilled to create the unique Chihuahua drink of the same name). Sometimes pine needles are used or mixed with sotol. Quickly and accurately the leaves are split and cut to length for weaving. I watch in wonder, asking questions and entertaining the kids with my camera. A Tarahumara miracle is taking shape.

A sharp little dagger is used to split and trim the leaves for weaving.

I had been wanting to give it a try this home brew of the Tarahumara called tesguino…and finally, I had the chance. I took a look at the stuff, watched the little objects floating around, realized it looked like dishwater(or worse) and gulped it right down. aaaah!

Huarachis worn by a little Tarahumara man. Miguelito, who came with his donkey to sell vegetables at Cabanas Diaz in Areponapuchi.

 Often Tarahumara feet will be dry, crusted, and sometimes a little wounded from banging around the hills in these things. They do protect pretty well actually and seem to work year round.

These feet of a woman along the train at San Rafael have seen many miles.

How to tie huarachis:

I am going to do this by showing you a series of photos. I met this guy at theDivisadero train stop one day last year and he had a new pair- you can easily get the details on how to tie them:

At the Gallegp Mirador above Urique

When we travel in this enchanting land of the Sierra Madres, there are always numerous gaga sights and memorable places…like this ridge above Urique (close to the Bahuichivo CHEPE stop- check this video up close ). This shot was taken during the rainy season- actually August- a great time to  There are more moments and places like this than your camera or your heart can take in.

But the most memorable and meaningful sites and pics are the faces of the people. This little guy was hanging out at the church in the tiny town of Cuiteco as we came back from a long walk to a waterfall on Sunday morning a few weeks ago. When that look of unstoppable optimism shines through a weathered life like that, it leaves a long impression.

Not many people get off of CHEPE at Cuiteco, but it is worth it. I plan to keep it in our itinerary for Copper Canyon train trips as much as possible.

Cuiteco…a quiet stream, a “main street” with no stores or cafes- like the only place to get a coke is in the living room of “the house with the black door”, the chatter of Tarahumara children at the school beyond the school.

The Tarahumara are so photogenic…yet so shy in their ways. One great resource for their culture and ways is theexcellent book by Jeff Biggers- “In the Sierra Madre”- essential reading for those visiting the canyon.

When we offer trips there, our way is to infuse each day with oppportunities to experience these fascinating people- their language, food, artwork, etc. Oy yes…and their Tesguino! I will have to blog about that soon!